CatKnitz

Better than Costco

2011-12-09T17:18:00.000-08:00

Vitabath, price is better than Costco and with Amazon Prime, no warehouse, no lines, free delivery to your door in 2 days. Time and stress saved is free, too!

He’s Got the Moves

2009-12-22T13:49:00.001-08:00

I made some bibs for our friends Lisa and David’s twins Weston and Brennan. I think you can see that Weston, on the left, might have the size advantage, but Brennan has the moves!
Inspired by Mason Dixon Knitting, and Barbara Walker , and my own free pattern; these boys are well covered for now! Check out my blog for more bib details.

Find Me Now on WordPress

2009-12-14T20:06:00.001-08:00

Now over on CatKnitz.

Hope to see you there!

Koah's Bib's 2

2009-09-04T16:53:00.000-07:00

Koah's Bibs

2009-09-04T16:51:00.000-07:00

Never Pay a Credit Card Late Fee Again

2009-05-22T15:22:00.001-07:00

I have been reading Nudge and I had to make my pitch for behavioral economics since I am taking a short break from knitting.

Here’s my nudge suggestion that I think would reduce and possibly mostly eliminate late credit card payment fees for consumers and provide a win for card issuers, too. (not that they need it!).

Make the “default” method of payment for credit card bills the “auto-pay” option which many, if not all, credit card companies offer. Among the auto-pay options, make the default, the minimum payment.

Most, if not all, credit card companies allow for payment by an “automatic deduction” or “auto-pay” (there are other names for it) from your checking or savings account. This is NOT online banking (where you have to “push the button” to initiate the payment). (Online banking is not foolproof. If you forget to initiate the payment, it doesn’t get made. If the credit card company changes the date the payment is due and you don’t catch that piece of information, the payment is late, online banking or no online banking. OK, I’m not a fan of online banking.)

You fill out a form with your checking or savings account number on it, your signature, etc. giving the credit card company “permission” to deduct the payment from your account each month. This is a pre-determined deduction/payment (usually around the same day each month) from your checking or savings account for payment of the credit card bill. The deduction/payment can take 1 of 3 forms:

(default choice) You can choose the minimum payment to be deducted from your account each month
You can choose a fixed amount as long as it is above the minimum payment. Otherwise, it will be the minimum payment.
Or you can request that the entire balance each month be deducted from your account.

At any time during the month, the consumer can send additional payments toward reducing the balance.

Here are the facts:

Most consumers are already paying the credit card bill with a check so a checking or savings account exists in most cases. True, some people may be using a cashier’s check or going to the bank with cash and may not have a checking account, but I would suspect the majority of people mail the check to make the payment.
By using the “auto-pay” method, checks NEVER arrive late. Consumers never forget to pay the bill. Checks don’t get lost in the mail. Credit card companies always get the payment (unless there are insufficient funds in the account).
Consumers are protected should they go on vacation, out of town, get sick, etc. and neglect to pay the bill.
Consumers are protected should the credit card company move the PO Box where payments go and now it takes more time for their payment to reach the PO Box and now the payment is late. This doesn’t happen with “auto-pay”.
Consumers are protected if the credit card company changes the date due or shortens the time between billing and payment due.
Consumers are protected from checks being “lost in the mail or delayed because of inclement weather, natural disasters, or holidays”. With the US Postal system currently operating under large financial stress, this may increase.
If you are signed up for the “auto-pay” option, the credit card company will never be able to say your payment is late, unlike if you pay by online banking since THE CREDIT CARD COMPANY is in control of deducting the money from your account to pay the bill.
Consumers will never pay a late fee if they use this option and have sufficient funds in their account

The banks/credit card issuers would not earn as much from late fees, but I suspect default rates on credit cards would decline if the agreed upon monthly payments were automatically deducted from the consumer’s account.

While I don’t have data to support this, (but I am certain somebody does) my guess is lower default rates would:

1. Offset the loss in revenue from late fees, and

2. Generate more revenue overall. If people weren’t spending money on late fees, they might put that money toward keeping their credit card bills current.

I believe that before the current economic crisis, the default rate on credit cards was 6%; I don’t know what the current rate is now, but I know it has risen along with unemployment rates. If an incentive (lower interest rates or higher credit limits, perhaps?) were given to the consumer to choose the default, “auto-pay” option; both sides win.

As you may suspect, my husband and I have been paying our bills this way for many years. In addition to saving lots of postage (!), we have saved ourselves a lot of worry. We now pay the majority of our bills this way: our utilities, our insurance premiums, credit cards, etc. are all deducted from our checking account every month. Several weeks before the deduction we receive the bill, we look it over and then I write the amount to be deducted in the check register (I’m old fashioned). Some of my friends just wait for it to show up on their bank statement. Nothing gives you more peace of mind when you go out of town than to know that your bills will be paid whether or not you are there to do it.

This is my nudge suggestion.

Beanie Babe

2008-12-09T14:29:00.001-08:00

This is the first in a series of Beanie posts.

Noro Kureyon Beanie. Takes one skein. Knit in the round.

Get your gauge, then cast on the number of stitches based on your head circumference (make the number divisible by 8, more on that later) and how you want the hat to fit. If you want it tight fitting, subtract an inch. If you like it loose fitting, do not subtract.

Garter edge for 1 1/2 inches then stockinette stitch for the desired length (depends on your head size and how you like to wear your beanie: high on your forehead or low near your eyebrows. Measure a hat that you like the fit.)

Note: Garter stitch in the round is: knit a row, purl a row. Repeat these 2 rows for a garter "ridge" or 2 garter stitch rows. Be sure to mark the beginning or end of the round so you know where to change from knit to purl.

When it is time to begin the crown decrease, divide the total number of stitches by 8, (you will have 8 sections) then knit to the last 2 stitches in each section and knit 2 together. (k2 tog) for the entire round.

Knit the next round, no decreases.

Repeat these 2 rounds until you have 8 stitches remaining. Try the hat on to see if it fits. If so, cut the yarn, leaving about a 6" tail.

Thread a tapestry needle and thread the yarn through the open 8 loops. Pull tight to close hole. Weave in all ends, block as appropriate for your yarn, and enjoy! this website explains it really well.

Wild Rice

2008-12-08T08:06:00.000-08:00

Click to enlarge, the detail is delicious looking!

WILD RICE SALAD

1 lb wild rice, which is approximately 3 cups wild rice.

2 bay leaves

8 sprigs fresh thyme, tied in a bundle

Cook wild rice as follows: Rinse wild rice in a sieve/strainer under cold water. Combine 1 ¾ c. chicken stock with ¼ c. cold water to make 2 cups liquid for each cup of wild rice. So, for the pound of wild rice, 6 cups of the stock/water mixture is needed. Add 2 bay leaves, a bundle of fresh thyme (8 sprigs), 1 tsp salt.

In a heavy pot, bring to boil, and then simmer for 25 to 35 minutes until rice is chewy, but tender; individual grains plumped but still intact (start checking at 25 minutes). Drain any excess liquid. There will be excess liquid, possibly a few cups. Not to worry! (This method of cooking the rice is courtesy of Cook's Illustrated Magazine which has been a favorite subscription for many years).

For vinaigrette

Puree all ingredients except olive oil in food processor or blender. With the food processor running, add olive oil in steady stream until olive oil is incorporated/emulsified. Make vinaigrette at least one day ahead for flavors to meld.

1/2 cup fresh orange juice or I have used OJ concentrate undiluted
6 tablespoons chopped shallot
6 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1-2 T sugar

4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup jasmine or basmati white rice. Cook white rice as follows: Rinse rice according to package directions. Sauté rice for 2-3 minutes in melted butter and salt in sauce pan you are going to cook it in on low to medium heat. You are coating the grains of rice with the butter as (similar to risotto) and lightly toasting the rice. Add water and cook until rice is done, 10 minutes +/-. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, 5 minutes.

2 T unsalted butter, melted
1 1/2 cups water, boiling!

½ t salt

3 cups hickory nuts (!) or chopped pecans, toasted
1 1/4 cups chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (you can use more)
1 cup dried apricots, thinly sliced
1 cup dried cranberries or sour cherries (I chop them)

Assemble salad:

Stir together the rices, vinaigrette, nuts, parsley, dried fruit, and salt and pepper to taste.

Serve at room temperature.

Cooks' note:

• Salad keeps, covered and chilled, 3 days.

• If making ahead of time, you can combine the rice and vinaigrette. Add the dried fruit, parsley and nuts up to an hour before serving for best flavor.

Serves 12 (I think it serves more than 12)

Gourmet
Gourmet Entertains, original recipe, see Epicurious: additions and revisions by CatKnitz
February 2000

A Little Horsing Around

2008-12-07T12:03:00.000-08:00

Fine Cooking, simple ingredients.

From a John Ash recipe in a 2000 issue of Fine Cooking Magazine. (In my house a lot of cooking magazines have come and gone, this one remains.)

Sweet Potatoes with heavy cream and grated horseradish, plus salt and pepper. Sounds weird, but the taste is heavenly. The horseradish becomes sort of "nutty" in flavor but remains reminiscent of its origins, the heavy cream becomes somewhat cheese-y/sweet tasting and the sweet potatoes/yams bring it all together. YUM.

Use horseradish like this: Zakuson Gourmet Horseradish and a flat baking dish like this: CorningWare SimplyLite 2-Quart Oblong Baking Dish. My dish is vintage Corningware and any flat baking dish will do, but if you need something, Corningware is a workhorse which will not break the bank.

Other great cookbooks by this author which I refer to often:

From the Earth to the Table: John Ash's Wine Country Cuisine

The Wine Lover's Cookbook: Great Recipes for the Perfect Glass of Wine

Stray Socks

2008-12-07T10:57:00.001-08:00

Let someone else knit the sock.

Stray Sock Sewing: Making One of a Kind Creatures from Socks

Then make really cute sock toys. These are only a few. Simple, effective, creative results.

Velvet Rabbit: The White Album

2008-12-07T08:37:00.000-08:00

My version. A gift for a friend who made my shoulder better.

The view from the back.

Separates

This adorable bunny

(photo from the book)

from Simple Knits for Little Cherubs called the "Velvet Rabbit", by Erika Knight. The bunny pattern was pretty straightforward. All garter stitch. I knit both front and back pieces at the same time to ensure that they were the same size. Same strategy as for sweater sleeves. Also, when you are done, you are done, except for the arms, which are very quick. The ear shaping works quite well.

The instructions for sewing up the bunny don't seem (no pun intended) as if they will work, but follow them and they do! I'm making another one in Cascade Ecological Wool (a gift for the son of one of my knitting friends).. This one was made using Cascade 220 Superwash since the recipients were busy parents.

Note: The pattern calls for Rowan Fine Chenille, which appears to be somewhere between fingering and DK weight yarn, using needles that are several sizes smaller than normally used for the yarn, (pattern calls for a US 1 needle, yarn recommends US 2-5 needles). So, where I am going with this is: Whatever yarn you choose to make this adorable bunny out of, go down several needle sizes from the recommended needle for the yarn. What this produces is a fabric that is denser and more "velvet-y" (especially if you are using a chenille yarn or cotton yarn), it keeps the stuffing from showing through and helps keep the garter stitch from stretching too much.

Enough said.

And of course, this bib (free pattern)

before photos on the "board". Blocking makes a big difference when you are sewing together pieces that are supposed to be the same size. I bought this one

and it makes all the difference. It folds in half for easy storage and well, you can read about on Webs. Enjoy.

Bib Caterpillar

2008-12-05T10:09:00.001-08:00

Put them together and you get:

A caterpillar of bibs.

Made for my friends David and Lisa's new twin boys from various yarns and patterns using my Button Knot Bib Pattern as a template. Some Fibonacci striping (bottom row on the left) going on and a Barbara Walker "String of Purls" pattern (middle row on the left) from A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. You will recognize the first two patterns from Mason-Dixon Knitting: The Curious Knitters' Guide: Stories, Patterns, Advice, Opinions, Questions, Answers, Jokes, and Pictures.

Frozen Shoulder, Spring Thaw

2008-02-25T18:18:00.001-08:00

Along with the lengthening and warming days comes the thawing of my shoulder. Recently I noticed I couldn't move my right arm, (my knitting arm!!) with the same range of motion as my other arm. I also was experiencing aching pain. I won't go on and on but after a visit to my internist and a referral to a physical therapist the diagnosis was: Frozen Shoulder!!!! It turns out it is VERY COMMON in women of "my age"!

My first question to the physical therapist was, " Do I have to give up knitting?" Fortunately, no. But no "hunching" my shoulders so I have to hold my knitting way down in my lap.

All I can say to my fellow knitters is: beware! Read about frozen shoulder here and this book, The Frozen Shoulder Workbook and DVD, Frozen Shoulder are useful, too.

The therapy is slow but I am told the success rate is high and I haven't stopped knitting!

;-D

Macaw Socks

2008-02-23T16:55:00.001-08:00

First sock! I love the yarn.

This yarn... (click to see details)

I didn't come to this lightly. I read Knitting Rules!. I watched, Knitting Sock Techniques 1, Lucy Neatby a Knitter's Companion. Then I watched Knitting Sock Techniques 2, Lucy Neatby a Knitter's Companion!

It was a cold and rainy afternoon with the fireplace cranked up and a husband working in the other room. (These videos are really good). Lucy Neatby has so many good ideas, tips, techniques, and the video is clear and easy to follow. Watching her use those blunt birch needles (I am a devotee to Knitpicks' very pointy needles) was something else. And besides, anyone with raspberry and blue hair can't be anything but GOOD!

It's amazing how much fun it is to watch someone else knit!! I think my husband thought I was watching grass grow but it reminded me of watching cooking shows ;-D.

I also read Getting Started Knitting Socks, Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles, Socks 101, knitty's tutorial socks101, and looked at lots of sock patterns.

I purchased the needles, I purchased the yarn, but I just couldn't get started. Finally I started doing gauge swatches and that took an number of tries (this poor yarn probably got knitted 10 or 15 times before I was satisfied). And then I realized that I didn't know how to do the long tail cast on (a-r-r-g-g-h) so I had to find a website with a video to show me how to do THAT!!

This one worked for me: http://www.knittingatknoon.com/longtail.html

So, after much reading and thinking and fiddling, I decided to stick with the basics and used Knitting Rules! (Stephanie Pearl-McPhee, the Yarn Harlot) basic sock pattern and the fun began...

Never Leave Home Without ...

2007-10-16T09:24:00.001-07:00

I've been doing some traveling and hiking and here are some suggestions for what to take with you. Photos and commentary to follow soon.

CatKnitz's Travel and Hiking: "Never Leave Home Without..."

Help Desk

2007-09-23T09:54:00.001-07:00

No knitting today, just laughing. Enjoy!

Medieval helpdesk with English subtitles

Solstice Stocking

2007-09-20T14:28:00.000-07:00

I am thinking of starting a new tradition: the Solstice Stocking. For those of us in the Northern Hemisphere (especially here at the 47th parallel), we celebrate the winter solstice or midwinter. Midwinter is the day when we have the shortest number of daylight hours, but after that, the days start to get longer . I think we all need a stocking filled with goodies to celebrate the returning of the LIGHT!!! All in the Southern Hemisphere, how about a Summer Solstice Stocking?

Why a stocking, you say? Especially a striped one? Well, another tradition that goes along with this Solstice Stocking could be stash busting! Check out this fabulous looking example my friend Michelle made for her son, Grant, from pieces of Cascade 220 , Cascade Pastaza, and other mystery yarn from her stash and a pattern from the book, Christmas Stockings.

She brought this to our knitting group the other evening and we all went crazy. We couldn't take our hands off it. It's big enough to get your hand inside of it (!) and long enough but not tooooo long. Just right.

And, since I (and several others in our group) have yet to knit a sock (!!!) what a great way to learn sock basics than on a really big sock, that doesn't have to fit and is going to be felted so that any minor mistakes will be somewhat obliterated!

A couple of interesting items to note:

Michelle tells me she knit all the stripes the same width/same number of rows.
As you can see, they didn't felt the same. Which, actually, I think, adds to the visual interest of the stocking. If (no WHEN) I make my stocking, and if I use all the same yarn, I will vary the widths of the stripes so that the end result is like Michelle's.
Shaving the finished product made a huge difference in the look. The consensus among the group (and most importantly, from Grant's point of view) was the shaved look was superior to the fuzzy look. Here are the two sides, you decide.
The Wonder Washer. I just recently read about this product on Craft Gossip, a new site for me. I will be checking this site out for tips. Back to the Wonder Washer, it looks like it might be a good solution for those of us with front loaders that take forever to felt items.

He's playing soccer now, but come December 21st, he will be looking in his stocking to see what the Solstice has brought him.

Wonder Washer

Christmas Stockings

Handknit Holidays : Knitting Year-Round for Christmas, Hanukkah, and Winter Solstice

Loving This Apron from Kim

2007-09-18T17:03:00.000-07:00

A way to support a local crafts person and it looks good, too!

Give me grasshoppers!!!!

I love this apron from K im.

And if you want to dip your toe or your grasshoppers into creating your own apron, try taking a peek at these books:

Bend-the-Rules Sewing or Amy Butler's In Stitches or Denyse Schmidt Quilts for inspiration.

;*)

Embellish Knit Video Tutorial: Part One and Two

2007-09-17T12:09:00.000-07:00

Tutorial: Part One Tutorial: Part Two

This video tutorial is for the Bond Embellish-Knit!. and Magicord knitting machine.

Here is the approximate text of the videos:
This is a tutorial on how to use either the Bond Magicord or the Bond Embellish-Knit!. spool knitting machine. Both machines will produce a very nice, even 4 stitch i-cord of any length that can be used in a variety of ways. The i-cord straps for my FREE Bib Pattern, were made using the Embellish-Knit!

I have the Embellish-Knit!. so that is the machine I will use.
There are 3 items in the package:
1. the machine
2. the clamp or the weight
3. the needle or threader

You are given some practice yarn in the package and I encourage you to use that yarn for practicing since it is in a gauge of yarn that will work in the machine. For the demonstration, I am going to use a sport weight cotton yarn.

One note about this machine is that bulky yarns will not work in it and they say worsted yarn will not work in it, but I am able to make Cascade 220 work in it and I understand that Harrisville Shetland Wool works in it. More about that later.

Before we start, I suggest you sit at a table and have a pillow or a folded blanket positioned near your feet. Toward the end of the demonstration, all will be revealed!

Now on to the demonstration
Before we begin, notice that you have 4 hooks in the center of the machine.
Now, turn the crank. Be certain to turn the crank only in the direction indicated by the arrow on the machine. Notice that the hooks rotate up and down as you turn the crank. Notice that there are little latches on each hook. More on this later.

The first thing you do is thread the machine. You do this by putting the thread through the hole at the bottom and then through the notch at the top and then drop it down the center. You can use the needle provided in the package if you like to make it easier.
Or, you can use any tapestry needle that you have to do the same. Or you can just do it with your fingers.

Once you have the yarn coming out of the bottom of the machine, clamp the weight to the end of the thread. Hold on to the clamp or the weight of it will pull your yarn right through the machine. Like This!!

Make certain that your yarn is to the left of the machine and is "free flowing", or has NO tension on the yarn. If there is tension on the yarn, or if it is not feeding from the left, the machine will jam. Trust me on this…

SLOWLY begin turning the crank on the machine in the direction indicated. At this point, you will have to hold the yarn (providing some tension on the yarn, just when I told you not to have tension on the yarn) with your left hand to keep it from falling through the machine but later, you will not.
(You will get to turn the crank more speedily later, but for now SLOWLY)

As the yarn passes the 1st hook, make certain it CATCHES in the hook, with the latch down.

As the yarn passes, the 2nd hook, make certain it SKIPS the hook. You may have to assist the yarn, either with your finger, the needle, or a crochet hook. Whatever works for you.

As the yarn passes the 3rd hook, make certain it CATCHES in the hook, with the latch down.

As the yarn passes, the 4th hook, make certain it SKIPS the hook. You may have to assist the yarn, either with your finger, the needle, or a crochet hook. Whatever works for you.

To recap, on the first round, the 1st and 3rd hooks, CATCH the yarn, the 2nd and 4th hooks SKIP or pass over the yarn.

SECOND ROUND.
OK, so now you are ready for the second round.
Again, slowly, turn the crank, making certain that the yarn from the second round catches in the 1st hook AND the yarn from the first round goes BELOW the latch on the 1st hook.

2nd hook, yarn will catch on the hook in between the hook and the latch. There won't be any yarn from the first round to go below the latch like on the first hook because we skipped this hook on the first round, (remember?!).
3rd hook, same as the 1st,
4th hook, same as the 2nd

Before we continue to the THIRD ROUND and all other rounds, this is a good time to check 2 things:
1. is your yarn tension free and feeding from the left?
2. is the clamp or weight hanging free?
Both must be hanging and flowing FREE for this little machine to work!!

ROUND THREE and all subsequent ROUNDS

Now, Stop here for a minute and make certain that your yarn is flowing freely from the left. At this point, the machine will hold the yarn and it won't fall through. Also, make certain that the clamp is hanging freely so that it can pull the product through the machine.
OK, now you can crank away. Well, go slowly at first. Keep you eye on the center of the hook area to make certain that things are not jamming.

I like to set the machine on the edge of a table or my arm on the edge of the table just to make things easier. That way I'm not holding it up in the air! Just make certain that you don't compromise the center hole where the finished product comes out. If that is not allowed to hang weighted, the machine will jam.

So, you see, I am cranking away here. Pretty soon, the product will emerge from the bottom of the machine.

Here it is now. When the clamp starts to get too far from the machine, move the clamp closer to the machine.

When you think the i-cord is long enough for your project, remove the clamp, just temporarily, so that you can measure it. The machine is about 4 ½ tall so you have about 4 ½ of i-cord in the machine and then whatever amount is outside the machine.
After removing the clamp, the i-cord will spring back from being stretched, so you can measure what you have and you will have a pretty good estimate of length. After measuring, PUT THE CLAMP BACK ON.

If in doubt, make it longer, because, once you cut it, there is no going back.

Once you have the length you want, cut the yarn and continue cranking. The i-cord will get a little longer until the machine runs out of yarn and then the weight of the clamp will pull the i-cord through the machine and it will fall out of the machine, usually on to the floor. This is why you want a pillow or a blanket or something soft for it to land on. You don't want the clamp to break since the outside of it is plastic.

Now you have your finished i-cord. If it is too long, unravel it to the correct length. Then, bind it off by threading the loose end through the loops using your needle. Weave in the ends and you are finished!

The yarn used for this demonstration of the Embellish-Knit!. is Tahki Cotton Classic which is considered a sport weight or lighter. Although worsted weight is not recommended by the manufacturer, I was able to use Cascade 220 and my method of using this machine and achieve very good results.

Acrobats and Puppy Dogs Need Help

2007-09-05T12:28:00.000-07:00

Barbara Walker at some of her most whimsical.

"Acrobats" (Band 55, figure 91) on the bottom row and Puppy Dogs (Mosaic 105, figure 69) on the top, from Mosaic Knitting by Barbara Walker.

Working on what to do with the wavy sides of this Button Knot Bib. As you can see, I have started a single crochet to see if that will tame the wave, but I think I will have to be "less tentative" as a friend suggested with my crochet so that it asserts itself over the wavy edge. I may try a "pick up and knit a garter edge" on the other side to see if that helps, but I am not very good at picking up stitches evenly, so I do it with trepidation...

Old Vogue Swatch

2007-09-04T10:50:00.000-07:00

My fascination with 2 color slip stitch continues. This garter slip stitch pattern is from an old Vogue Knitting magazine I un-earthed (I mean re-discovered in a closet) and looks as fresh as it did when it was presented in 1994.

It starts to have a mosaic feel, but the pattern is not charted, and has a repeat that becomes fairly easy to remember. Combined with the stockinette slip stitch band above and below, makes for a pleasing overall pattern.

Then I just kept going...

;*)

Fuchsia Sophie: From Shapeless to Shapely

2007-09-03T16:20:00.000-07:00

Serving up a Sophie Bag in fuchsia for summer. I've been using this all summer and loving it. I know summer is "officially" over, but these summer colors will be a bright spot as we head into the the dark days of winter. Oh, wait, we still have autumn!!!

The bag goes from shapeless to shapely

by using a firm plastic bottom (!) which I had custom cut at a local plastic shop for only a couple of dollars which included rounding the corners. They called the material ABS

and you can read all about what it is at their site: T ap Plastics. Hint, lighter colors, like white, make it easier to see into the depths of your purse, so if you are making anything larger than this little bag, I recommend you use white or a light color.

It's stiffer than a milk carton and you don't have to sew it in. You just place it in the bottom of the bag.

When you go to launder the bag, you just lift it out. I had the corners rounded at the shop so that there would be no sharp edges to rub and wear against the felting and eventually poke a hole in all my hard work!

Cascade 220 is the yarn of choice. Details on felting, finishing, and the Noni Camellias, here.

Chelan Dishcloths

2007-09-03T13:23:00.000-07:00

Overdue photo of dishcloths for a friend's condo in Chelan. We have spent many weekends there when we needed some sun and relaxation. Here is the reverse side of the garter stitch mosiac. Makes an interesting pattern. More than once have I seen it used on the reverse side by the recipients of the bibs. (I think they like the reverse side better!!) ;*)

Three Bibs for Aili

2007-09-03T13:03:00.000-07:00

Three Bibs for Aili

Just found out that our friends Anne and Adam had another baby.

I had fun with the colors, which are becoming my signature (to hide food stains: this is my theory since we never had kids, but we certainly spill a lot of food!)

Details on how to make these here.

Elfin

2007-09-02T18:33:00.000-07:00

When is a bib not a bib? Apparently when it's a hat!!

Proof positive that bibs are very versatile and when you are through using your bib to dust away your crumbs, up it goes on your head as fashion accessory!

Modeled for you by the beautiful Gwynnie!

Improv Knitting Gee's Bend Style

2007-09-02T16:39:00.000-07:00

It's not that I haven't been knitting, it's that I haven't been blogging (or always taking photos, although I manage to take photos of knitted items that are going out the door so that I don't forget what I did!).

(different light, different photographers, with different skills is why the colors look different. OK, fuchsia and chartreuse and red are hard to photograph).

Here is my first attempt at short rows, Gee's Bend style, thanks to Nona's tutorial on improvisational knitting. I followed it to the letter, except I changed colors every time instead of repeating colors. Also, as you can see, I didn't weave in the ends as I went along. (Tahki Cotton Classic was slippery). Next time, I will.

I didn't do the side pieces, so it's a little "bulge-y" on one side but it has rhythm!

BTW, the tutorial is GREAT!!! Very detailed where it needs to be, but not overly so. After a while, what you are doing becomes intuitive and at that point, Nona's must have figured that out and and the directions become even easier to follow. Thanks, Nona! Keep writing great tutorials!!!

Finished and been through the wash a number of times. Jim uses it as a polishing cloth for one of his many musical instruments...

Variations on a Theme

2007-09-02T14:29:00.001-07:00

Variations on a Theme

A quick photo of Aili's bib before shipping. Garter ribs, stockinette, slipped stitches and garter mosaic, all with a garter rib edge to keep it flat.

(Photo would have looked a little better if I had washed the bib before shooting, but I was out of time...)

Details for the straps here.

Getting Ready to Go To Denver's 1st Birthday Party!!

2007-09-02T13:13:00.000-07:00

Inspired totally by Jess Hutch's adorable robot, but created without a pattern, since she is no longer selling her book. Some careful looking at photos and lots of counting and charting and trial and error and knitting and frogging and I arrived at a finished product by B-Day, Denver's birthday party!

I decided to try Elann's Peruvian Highland Wool for this project. The verdict: while the wool has a soft silky feel, it pills and fuzzes (technical term). How do I know this since the item was not "worn" or washed? Remember, I said I had to do a lot of knitting, re-knitting, frogging, etc. The yarn did not take kindly to being frogged. There was a lot of fuzzing, making pulling the stitches out somewhat difficult. I guess my benchmark is Cascade 220, which you can pull out over and over again, with little ill effects.

Final verdict: I would NOT purchase this yarn again.

Without a pattern I had to improvise in a few areas:

1. the arms: I chose to pick up stitches at the shoulder and then increase to get the total number required for the arm, knitting it flat, sewing it up afterward. If I were to do it again, it would do it on dpns and stuff the arm as I went along. Not liking all the seaming...

2. the legs: I knit both of them at the same time so they would be the same length. Really, they are, although in some of the photos, they don't look like they are. Again, if I were doing this again, I would do them on dpns, (seaming!!). I would probably switch to flat knitting for the body and head since I think that the seaming does help give the robot more structure.

3. For the antenna, I doubled the yarn and reduced the needle size to 1/2 the size I was using for the body of the robot to get some real structure! Again, I picked up and knit the i-cord antenna before i seamed the top of the head.

in general, I was trying to reduce the amount of seaming/sewing because it is the most time consuming and if you don't do it carefully, it detracts from the look of your toy. I am only so-so on the seaming... (working on improving). But everyone loves the robot, so that's what it's really all about!

Sadly, the gifts were opened after the party, so no cute shots of the kid with the gift...

And here is the requisite shot of the young one with cake on the face and what looks like a future in orchestra conducting! Or perhaps a plea to get this stuff off my face, please.

;*)

I-Cord Softie Toy Tutorial

2007-07-22T13:41:00.000-07:00

I-Cord Softie Toy Tutorial

Take the i-cord straps from your Button Knot Bib (free pattern) or make quantity 3, four (4) stitch, 9" long i-cords.

(Another option for the i-cord straps is to use a simple knitting machine such as the Embellish-Knit!. You will make each cord separately, the desired length. I have a video tutorial and a written tutorial on how to use the Embellish Knit machine for i-cord.)

They can be the same color or different colors. I have used orange, purple and yellow/green.

Step 1. If you are using the straps from the Bib, then untie the knots at both ends of one of the i-cords.

If you are knitting i-cords, you can just follow the directions from the free pattern, or another option is to use a simple knitting machine such as the Embellish-Knit!.

Step 2. Fold the i-cord in half and re-tie the ends in an overhand knot so that a loop is formed.

Step 3. Insert the second strap with knots at each end through the loop.

Step 4. Tie the third strap or i-cord around the upper third of first i-cord loop (which has formed the "body" of the toy). These photos show the front and back of the toy.

Now you are finished!! I attached some novelty yarn at the top to give my toy some wild hair! You could use leftover scraps of yarn or anything soft to decorate your toy. Embroider eyes, spots, etc. and away you go! For safety, please do not sew on buttons or other small objects until your child is old enough not to put things in their mouth and possibly choke

Free Pattern: Button Knot Bib or Wash Cloth and Softie Toy? You Decide!!

2007-07-22T10:54:00.000-07:00

Knot Just Another Cute Knitted Bib!, the Button Knot Bib: The Bib That Grows with Baby.

Free Knitted Bib Pattern

I wrote out the directions for the bib for my knitting group and I will share them with you.

Copyright © Catherine M. Ford July 2007. This pattern may be shared at no cost providing this copyright notice remains intact. It may not be sold, nor may the finished product be sold without prior permission of the author. Images on this page are copyright Catherine M. Ford, 2007.

Button “Not” this Bib. Use the Knots as Buttons to attach the straps, untie when you are finished using it as a bib and you have a cloth that is useful in the kitchen or the bath and a new softie toy for your baby. Kind of like lost money found!

Here is the tutorial for making a toy from the bib straps.

The Bib that Grows into to a Wash cloth for the Kitchen or the Bath and a Little Bit More!

OVERVIEW:

A garter stitch bib with a visually complex pattern that is easy to master.

This is a great project for the new knitter who wants a quick project that teaches them a few new techniques, has a life after baby has “grown-up”, and lends itself to being made in any combination of colors.

For the experienced knitter it’s a quick baby present and it "grows" as your baby does as it “transforms” into a cloth for either the bath or the kitchen. For an extra treat, the straps turn into a softie toy! Most knitters know that nicely knitted cloth lasts a long time, much longer than a baby needs a bib, so the Button Knot Bib is the perfect solution.

SIZE: One

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Bib: Approximate, 8”wide, 7” length or “high”
Straps: 9" prior to knots being tied. Length will vary depending on how tight knots are tied.

MATERIALS :

[MC] Tahki Cotton Classic [100%cotton; 108yd/100m per 50g skein] ½ skein or 45 yards/20grams approx. for bib

[CC1] Tahki Cotton Classic [100% cotton; 108yd/201m per 50g skein] ½ skein 45 yards/20grams approx. for bib

*[CC2] Optional Tahki Cotton Classic [100% cotton; 108yd/201m per 50g skein] 12-15 yds/5 grams approx. for straps

Tahki Cotton Classic can be machine washed in warm water and dried in the dryer for this application.

(A good source for Tahki Cotton Classic is Yarnware.com)
*Note: CC1 can be used for the i-cord straps instead of a third color (CC2). The straps will contrast with the top band which is knitted in the MC.

US #6/4mm needles, Straight or circular needles may be used

US #6/4mm DPN for i-cord. Circular needle can be used as substitute for dpns in this application

Tapestry needle

GAUGE:

20sts/19 garter rib rows = 4 inches/10cm in garter stitch. Note: 20 garter ribs = 4” (they are easier to count than garter rows. A garter rib is 2 rows of garter stitch.)
Gauge is not critical for this project but you will want to be somewhat in the ballpark so that the bib comes out the size you want it to.

PATTERN STITCH: 8 Rows

With MC Rows 1 and 2: K

With CC1 Row 3 (K1, Sl 1 wyib)* to last st, K1. Be sure to slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise so as not to twist the stitch.

Row 4, (when you are returning, you will knit the stitches you knitted in Row 3 and slip the stitches you slipped in Row 3.) (K1, S1 wyif)* to the last st, K1

Do not break yarn while working the stripes; simply strand the yarn up the side of your work. You will be switching colors every other row except at the bottom (before CC1 is tied on) and top of the bib after you are finished with CC1). It will make for a nice clean edge.

With MC Row 5-6 K

W CC1 Row 7-8 K

DIRECTIONS for Bib:

With MC, CO 41 sts. (if you are altering the pattern, an odd # of stitches must be used for the pattern stitch to work)

Row 1-3, K, (garter stitch)

Tie on or change to CC1, do not cut MC.

I use Nancie Wiseman’s (The Knitters Book of Finishing Techniques) method for attaching the new yarn color which is called the “Magic Knot. You tie the new yarn around the old yarn with just a single knot which allows you to slip the new yarn up the strand of the old yarn. It also allows you to untie it easily should you need to.

Using CC1 K the next 2 rows (Row 4-5)

Change to MC, do not cut CC1, and BEGIN PATTERN STITCH on Row 1 of Pattern Stitch (this will be your 6^th row)

Repeat Pattern Stitch six (6) more times.

Change to MC, (you are now on Row 62, garter rib 31 if you are counting!), K

Buttonhole Rows: (This is a 2 stitch buttonhole. It is made by binding off 2 stitches on the first row, then casting on 2 stitches over the bound off stitches in the next row. A third row using a special technique finishes off the buttonhole.)

Row 63, K 6 st (when you BO, you need to knit to the 6^th st so that there will be 4 sts left on the edge of the bib when you do the bind off), BO 2 st, (be sure to pull the last cast off stitch TIGHT) K to the last 5 sts, BO 2 st, K to the end. (Note: There should be 4 stitches on the bib edge side of each buttonhole.

Row 64, K 4, turn and CO 2 sts using the cable cast on method, (Knittinghelp.com is a great resource if you need help with the cable cast on technique) turn and K to the cast off stitches at the other end of the work (4 stitches from the end), turn and CO 2 sts using the cable method, turn and knit to the end.

Row 35, K, pick up the loose thread at the start of each buttonhole, work the next stitch and then pass the picked-up stitch over the worked stitch so that you don’t increase the number of stitches. Pull the working yarn firmly after “passing over” to prevent any loops forming.

Row 66, K

BO. You will be binding off from the wrong side of the work. Weave in ends, either horizontally or diagonally across the wrong side of the bib.

DIRECTIONS for the DOUBLE I-CORD STRAPS:

CO 4 sts. K two 9” i-cords for the straps. (I like to knit them both at the same time. You will need to use two different strands of yarn, one from the inside of the skein, one from the outside of the skein. This way, both i-cords will be the same length.) Knittinghelp.com is an excellent resource if you need help with the i-cord technique. Weave in ends. I like to use a tapestry needle and thread/hide the ends of the i-cord up inside the length of the i-cord.

Another option for the i-cord straps is to use a simple knitting machine such as the Embellish-Knit!. You will make each cord separately, the desired length. I have a video tutorial and a written tutorial on how to use the Embellish Knit machine for i-cord.

ALTERNATIVE DIRECTIONS for SINGLE STRAP:

CO 4 sts. K one 12” i-cords for the strap.

ASSEMBLY:

For the double straps: Slip the finished end of the i-cord through one buttonhole from the wrong side of the work to the righblt side of the work. Tie a loose overhand KNOT: Overhand_knot at the end of each i-cord strap. Pull the strap so that the knot on the right side of the bib is snug against the bib. Do the same thing on the other side of the bib.

For the single strap: Slip the finished end of the i-cord through one buttonhole from the wrong side of the work to the right side of the work. Tie a loose overhand KNOT: Overhand_knot at each the end of the i-cord strap. Pull the strap so that the knot on the right side of the bib is snug against the bib. The knot at the other end of the 12” strap will serve as a button fastener.

You are finished! A “half” of a square knot, just one strap looped over the other, will keep the bib in place. The knots at the ends of the straps hold the straps in position.

When you are finished using this as a bib, unite the straps, and you have a lovely cloth for kitchen or bath.

When baby grows up, the i-cord straps can be transformed into Softie Toys. I attached some novelty yarn at the top to give my toy some wild hair! You could use leftover scraps of yarn or anything soft to decorate your toy. Embroider eyes, spots, etc. and away you go! For safety, please do not sew on buttons or other small objects until your child is old enough not to put things in their mouth and possibly choke.

Balloon Art can be your inspiration!

I am beginning to assemble other ideas for "life after bib". No photos yet, but several suggestions "in progress" from friends have included:

1. Sundress yoke or top. (you will need 2, one for the front, one for the back). Knit or sew fabric for the skirt. I am presently working on a pattern for this.

2. Small purse. Sew 2 bibs together on the sides and bottom and you have a small purse for yourself or a small tote for your child.

3. Apron yoke or top. You would basically need 1/2 a sundress plus some ties. Or you could just purchase this cute apron .

4. Pillow top. You would need 4 bibs. Sew them together for one side, use fabric for the other side.

Abreviations/Defintions:

BO = Bind Off

CC = Contrasting Color

CO = Cast On

DPN = Double Pointed Needles

K = Knit

P = Purl

MC = Main Color

S = Slip. Always slip the yarn “purlwise”, as if to purl the stitch

STs = Stitches

Wyib = with yarn in back of work (this mean that the yarn was away from you or behind the work. You will do this when you are on the right side of the work so that the bar created will be on the wrong side of the work. Don’t worry, it seems more complicated than it is. Once you do it, you will see how easy it is!)

Wyif = with yarn in front of work (this would mean that the yarn was toward you since you are on the wrong side of the work, you want the “bar” created by the yarn on the back of the work)

Garter Stitch= knit every row

Cable Cast On:http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/

i-cord:http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/misc.php

Copyright © Catherine M. Ford July 2007. This pattern may be given away at no cost providing this copyright notice remains intact. It may not be sold, nor may the finished product be sold without prior permission of the author. Images on this page are copyright Catherine M. Ford, 2007.

Larger Than MY Life Bag

2007-07-21T14:49:00.000-07:00

Larger than MY Life...

Crocheting is like riding a bike. You never really forget how to do it. You may forget the nuances, how to count the stitches, etc., but it all comes back really quickly. It's been 30 years since I switched from crochet to knitting and haven't looked back. In defense of crochet, I learned to do it first and I credit it for teaching me how to keep an even tension in my work and for "teaching" me combination knitting since after crochet, that is what felt most natural to me for the knit stitch (or else I just interpreted the knit stitch incorrectly, but my knitting comes out perfectly, so there you go.) There is a lot to be said for crochet in terms of dropping stitches: there is only one stitch to drop, so no big deal. Great for entry level users of yarn. And, ripping out/back is a LOT easier. And, you can make some cute edges and flowers with it, so all in all, crochet has its benefits.

I am always looking around the web for new ideas for knitted purses when I happened upon Cecily Keim's "Larger Than Life" Bag on various knitters blogs (Spring 2007 issue of Interweave Crochet). I was distracted, obsessed, and determined to make this bag!! They say it is the bag that will turn knitters into crochet-ers. Possibly.

The tale of my Larger Than Life (LTL) bag begins. First I tried out the seemingly simple block the bag is based on. There's a reason this bag is so compelling. It looks simple, but the block it is based on, while not overly difficult, is complex enough to make a knitter want to crochet again. It takes me several (OK, 5!) tries to get it right, plus a trip to Sugar Bunny, who has provided an excellent tutorial on the Willow Block (the square used for this bag from 200 Crochet Blocks by Jan Eaton (Interweave Press). There is something to be said for the saying, "a little knowledge is dangerous". Thinking or remembering some of my crochet knowledge caused me to either mis-read the directions or skip them all together!! OK, I finally achieved a block that looked like it was supposed to.

Next issue: Gauge. I had pretty much decided to use Tahki Cotton Classic because of the color choices, although Cascade 220 was in consideration. Cotton Classic won out because of the sheen, the wider range of colors, and the stitch definition. The crochet hook specified produced a loose, floppy block, about 6.5 inches square. So, I started ratcheting down hook sizes until I was happy with the result: a 5.5 inch square using a Boye steel hook, Size 1, 2.75 mm.

Before we go any farther on here, let me say that my plan was to deviate from the pattern when it came to the lining of the bag. I have a sewing machine, but I don't really want to use it any more than I have to. I don't usually use bags with zippers, so if I did make a bag, I wouldn't be installing a zipper. I am a fan of the magnetic snap! My inspiration came from Ellen, who posted on the LargerThanLifeCAL. From her post, I got the idea of making the front, back, sides, and bottom as a slip cover for an already existing tote bag. I would then attach (method to be determined) the crocheted "LTL - WORK of ART" to the existing bag and a.) minimize work on my part, and b.) end up with a better lining/inner bag than if I made it myself.

After much looking around, I found a reasonably priced ($5 approx.) black tote bag at Michaels, 17"w x 13"H x 4"D. These were close to the dimensions of the pattern and I thought I could make it work. The top of the bag had an inch "border" made by stitching, where the handles were attached. This ended up serving three purposes. One was as a design feature, the border was the same dimension as the handles, so leaving a canvas border at the top, looked intentional. The other was, by have the canvas bag border at the top, it kept the crocheted material away from the top edge where most the the wear and abrasion happens, so the bags stays good looking longer!!

The third was using up an inch of the 13". With my squares measuring at 5.5 inches, 2 squares would = 11". The crocheted border would add 1/2" to the front/back panel making it 11 1/2" and the rest (getting it to 12") I could make up with blocking and cotton's natural ability to stretch....... it worked.

The handle was just long enough to go over my shoulder but not too long.

Now the fun began. COLOR. COLOR. COLOR. Well, embarking on this project gave me an excuse to purchase every possible interesting shade of Cotton Classic in green, turquoise, red-purple, oranges, reds, and of course chartreuse. I quickly realized a couple of color guidelines for this project:

I was going to modify color scheme of the pattern block. There is a center "circle" of one color, then a "ring and petal" (my words) of another color, and finally a border of a third color. For my taste, the middle section was too much of the same color so I modified this section by adding a 4th color, usually in the same color family and value, but different to give this area some variety and depth (but not always, as you can see in these examples!).
.
The centers of the blocks, the "circles" were all going to be green, medium to light green. I chose not to make them identical, but it was an option I considered.
The border rounds usually were a darker color, often green, but not always.
Originally I was going to have 12 different blocks, no repeats, but for various reasons, I repeated several blocks.

I wish I could say that it all went smoothly. The crocheting was fine, the color choices were not always fine, so there was a lot of ripping out... One trick: instead of cutting the yarn when changing colors, use locking or split stitch markers to temporarily hold the last stitch (as if it were cut and pulled through). When you finish the square, and see all of the colors together, you can decide if you like the combination. If you don't, rip it out, and your yarn is still intact: no pieces of yarn, (which I detest!).

I didn't keep count, but I probably made almost 20 squares before I got the combinations I was happy with. I tend to be a little particular.

Assembling the blocks. Of course, as I was making the blocks, I was putting them beside each other, designing as I went which can make for some exciting moments, but definitely slows down the production process. No pattern to tell you what to do. At some point you just have to get the black yarn out and start whip stitching these puppies together! Of course, after you proudly sew these cute squares together, you have to crochet around them several times...

Now comes the side and bottom band which seems simple (the stitch pattern IS simple) but takes a long time. I think it was made worse by my choice of BLACK as the main color so it was doubly fatiguing to crochet the long narrow band in black. I did figure out that if I put on some magnifiers, things got a lot easier ;*). Again, after you finish the 4 x 41 inch band of single and double crochet you get to crochet around the whole thing! I think you are getting that I got tired of that part of the pattern, although it IS NECESSARY for the bag to have a FABULOUS finished look!

So, I have made the front, the back, the sides, and the bottom. How to attach my "crocheted slipcover" to my canvas tote bag? Originally I thought of snap tape. But, I abandoned that idea, even though it does come in black. Then I thought of Velcro dots. I underestimated the WEIGHT of the completed piece when you do it in cotton. Probably why Cecily chose merino wool. The Velcro dots weren't going to do it. There was going to be a lot of sagging...

Then I remembered how we used to hang quilts in our house. We applied the Velcro strip with the hooks to a piece of wood attached to the wall (a furring strip) and sewed the Velcro strip with the loops to the quilt. That way, you could easily hang the quilt without any sags, pressure points, pulling etc.

So, I decided, that was what I would have to do. I machine sewed (OK, my friend Michelle sewed it because my sewing machine needed some repair) the Velcro with the hooks to the canvas bag. I hand sewed the Velcro strip with the loops to the crochet piece and ...

Side 1 and Side 2

Final Analysis: Would I make this again? I love the end result!!! It was A LOT OF WORK!!!! Much more than I anticipated. Oh, I forgot to mention, weaving in ALL the ends of the MANY COLORS in each very colorful block. And there is a lot of very careful sewing, loop by loop. I kept telling my husband, as I was going along, "If anyone asks me to make this for them, the price is, ..."

Of course, I "went to school" on this one, so the next one wouldn't be quite so entertaining. I think I will settle for teaching others how to make their own LARGER THAN LIFE Bag and let them take their own journey!

Thanks, Cecily, great pattern, great inspiration.

Button Knot Bib

2007-07-21T13:04:00.000-07:00

Button Knot Bib

Free Pattern: Button Knot Bib

I've been thinking about how to make the basic bib more basic.

I started thinking about making bibs again when we recently heard from our friends Damon and Ingrid. My husband (Jim) and Damon used to work in the same office and they still work for the same company, (but in different cities) but hadn't corresponded for a while. Of course, our fondest memories of Damon are of his Spicy Chocolate Coffee Truffle recipe!! Yum.

Anyway, Damon had some NEWS to send us: He and Ingrid were new parents to Gwyneth!!! (She's the one with the yellow "braids" on the left!).

I also remember Jim telling me that after Damon and Ingrid moved to California, Ingrid began working in a yarn store. At the time, I hadn't returned to knitting (I was on a 20 year sabbatical from knitting) so I didn't register a "bond".

Back to the bibs...

The challenge then was how to sit down, finish the bib and not have to go hunting for buttons or decide what color buttons would look best, sewing that button on the bib, and, in the end, how to put a little more LIFE into my bibs. I can't be the only one who has noticed it's similarity to the humble cloth used in either the kitchen or bath. With this twist on the design, I think I may have come up with a solution:

I am calling it my Button Knot Bib but really it should be called the Button Knot Nine Lives Bib. By positioning a couple of buttonholes at the top of the bib and using i-cords for straps, (which are secured by loose overhand knots at each end) the bib functions as a bib when needed. When it's useful life as a bib is over, remove the i-cords and you have a wonderful dishcloth, washcloth, etc. with lots of life (and some handy "loops" in the corners for hanging on a hook, (the left over buttonholes)) left in it!

Here are some "instructional" photos for the knot challenged.

Here is a version using a single, longer strap which you button and un-button each time you use it.

Wondering what to do with those left over i-cords? Tie them together and you have some simple, washable softie toys for your baby.

Kind of reminds me of balloon art. Remember balloon art? Well, it's been taken to a whole new level!!

Fetching

2006-10-02T14:43:00.000-07:00

Knitty's Fetching...

Left hand finished. Looking for a way to do the right hand using a stitch holder instead of the waste yarn.

Fib Bib

2006-09-24T19:24:00.000-07:00

Fib Bib or How I Cannot Tell a Lie...

Another baby, another bib.

Our friends Jim and Laura just had their baby boy so time to crank out another bib. Debating between garter stripes and beaded stripes, ...... my mind started to wander: thoughts of knitting nature, New Zealand beaches, blue waters (and maybe a few rugby stripes, baby size, thrown in)...

Out came the turquoise and aqua.

A quick count of the number of garter stripes in the bib body and and I realized that the first section of the Fibonacci sequence or series repeated several times, would be close to the number of garter stripes in the bib pattern. And, as Kay and Ann imply, it's a bib, so gauge and size are somewhat fluid...

Simply put, take the first 4 numbers generated from the sequence, reverse the order so that the largest number is first, then knit the garter stripes in alternating colors.

This is the sequence:

Start with a 0 and a 1 (you won't knit a zero (0) row (!), really.

(0 and) 1, so really:

0+1=1

1+1=2

1+2=3

Now, reverse the order (for this pattern sequence). You will start knitting with the "4th part of the sequence".

1 garter stripe: Color B

1 garter stripes: Color A

2 garter stripes: Color B

3 garter stripes: (this is the bottom of the bib). Color A

Keep repeating this sequence until you get to the length you want for the bib. It will be either a little shorter or a little longer than than the pattern in the book. Since you may be using a yarn with a slightly different gauge, you can decide on the number of pattern sequences to repeat.

For even MORE fun with knitting and MATH (!) check this out math for knitters. or Geometry of Design.

Feel free to experiment with this wonderful striping system that always pleases the eye and knitters and nature love.

Squint your eyes, don't you see something wavy coming on the shore? I cannot tell a lie; I just wanted an excuse to knit something warm and tropical looking. It's cold and rainy weather will soon be here...

Baby Burp Cloth Sings the Blues...

2006-09-24T18:03:00.000-07:00

Hubbo goes out, Hubbo returns with shiny red Gibson ....

Hubbo says to knitter, "Lil' Lucille, (guitar now has a name!) needs a polishing cloth. Not just any polishing cloth; how about one of those genius baby burp cloths?"

Knitter is thinking, who is the genius here?

Books to Read

2006-09-14T12:08:00.000-07:00

We will be going to Killarney Circle Books ===>

Taming the Chaos

2006-09-12T16:03:00.000-07:00

I have to admit, am pretty addicted to circular needles. And, it seems that most solutions for storing needles seem to be for straight needles, (not that I don't have my share of straights left over from my beginning days of knitting...)

The desire to tame the chaos (up until then, I just lived with it!) started when I received my Knit Picks Options needles. These interchangeable needles come in plastic pouches, with zippers along the top and one side punched for a small, 3 ring binder. The pouches are divided, so really, only the needle points fit in the sections, and the needle cables fit in another section. A pretty good system if you have a lot of pieces and parts, or as a friend of mine used to say, " a kit of parts".

But, the rest of my needles I have always just tossed in a document case I had left over from a project I had worked on many years ago when I was working for an design firm and we were solving their storage problems of archival materials. The company we were doing the work for used these boxes called "Hollinger Boxes" made by of course, The Hollinger Corporation. Who knew these boxes were out there? I certainly didn't, but then, I am always learning something new...

Quilters like these boxes for storing quilts because of their acid free nature. I know this because I inherited 15 quilts several years ago and had to figure out how to store them!!!

Hollinger also has acid free tissue paper to put between the folds of the quilts (an important part of archival storage of a quilt). One place to get Hollinger Boxes for quilts, shows you all the box sizes, tubes for rolling quilts, and buffered and un-buffered tissue options. But back to knitting...

I ran across this idea for circular needle storage, on the web. Pencil pouches from Target. I thought it was a great solution for storing circular needles, dpns, crochet hooks, stitch holders, stitch markers and all those other little "must haves" that you like to keep in one place.

The suggestion for pencil pouches from Target is a good one. The Target in my area only had them as a "back to school" item; not to be re-stocked after they sold out over Labor Day. I called around and Office Depot has something similar, if you can't find them at Target. They carry them as a standard item. Their basic model, is 11"x7", frosted plastic on one side, clear plastic on the other side with a slide zipper on the top. One side is punched for either a 3 or 5 hole ring binder.

The document case fits in my cabinet where I keep my stash, so all is well. If you want to keep it on a bookcase, the letter size would probably work better, but are only 12 1/4" long. The legal size is 15 1/4" long.

The great thing about the document case, (I use the legal size; they come in letter and legal size) is that it is long enough to put your straight needles in and wide enough to fit both my Denise case and my Knit Picks case and the pencil pouches with my other circulars, etc. in the them.

Here is a photo of my stash of needles in my beloved Hollinger box, so worn, it is real!

Looking in a little closer, you will see my straight needles, laying down on the bottom.

Now that things are organized, I can start on those cute fingerless gloves from the last issue of Knitty.com, called "Fetching"...

Beaded Baby Bib-O-Love

2006-09-05T14:29:00.000-07:00

Baby Bib-O-Love meets Vivian Høxbro.

I was in one of our many LYS's the other day and the owner was doing something called "domino" knitting. Always curious, I asked, "What is that?" One thing led to another and soon I was reading Vivian Hoxbro's book, Domino Knitting (Knitting Technique series). Of course, the first thing you do is make her 9 basic squares. OK, I didn't make ALL 9, but there was one that caught my eye, #9. She called it "beaded". Vivian is big into garter stitch and its many variations.

The beads are basically a slipped stitch worked over 2 rows of garter stitch in a contrasting color, AKA a Mosaic Garter Stitch.

Another book which has brought back the virtues of the garter stitch is Mason Dixon Knitting. The bib pattern (Baby Bib-O-Love) looked inviting, and the thought of a striped bib seemed appealing, but those beads of Vivian's were in my mind...

I decided those bibs needed some BEADS and so...

These tropical colors are brought to you by Tahki, Cotton Classic.

Here is a detail of slipped stitch and the "bead":

To set up a bead row, do 2 rows of garter stitch (knit every stitch on both the right and wrong sides) in fuchsia.

The row with the "bead" is worked with the green yarn over 2 rows, and one stitch is knitted, the next stitch is slipped. So, in this example, using the green yarn (tie on the green yarn), knitting from the fuchsia row below (you knitted the row below with fuchsia) you knit one fuchsia stitch with the green yarn, then you slip a fuchsia stitch (holding the green yarn behind the work, at this point the right side is facing you), then you knit the next stitch with the green yarn, slip the next stitch, etc. Do this all the way across the row.

(Note: if you start this at the bottom of your work, then you cast-on in fuchsia, knit one row in fuchsia (in this example). You are now on the RS (right side) and you are ready to start the bead row in a contrasting color (in this example, green). This bead or slipped garter stitch is done starting on the right side of the work.)

On the next row, with the green yarn, you knit any stitches you knitted in the last row and slip any stitches you slipped in the last row, always keeping the yarn in back of the work when you slip the stitches. This time you will be working on the wrong side of the work but you will be "creating" the beads on this pass. They will "appear" on the right side of the work. Take a look as you work your way across and you will see them.

Now you will be back at the side where your fuchsia yarn is. Pick up the fuchsia yarn* and do 2 rows of garter stitch or knit across and back. This forms the border on the top of the bead and really sets the bead off by bordering it. If you want a green stripe by doing 2 rows of garter stitch in green. Doing a strip in the same color as the beads tends to balance the pattern and tie the 2 colors together better since the beads alone can be overpowered by other color.

*(Note: Here is a tip on stripes from the book, "Mason-Dixon Knitting: The Curious Knitters' Guide: Stories, Patterns, Advice, Opinions, Questions, Answers, Jokes, and Pictures" that really works: Kay and Ann suggest, as many people do, to carry the yarn up the side, in between stripes. In addition, and, this is the really good tip, "When changing colors, for the first row of a stripe, pull the new color around your needle from behind the old color" This works great for alternating stripes of color. For more tips on stripes, check out the book.)

All of this depends of course on what colors you use and the weight of the yarn. Vivian Hoxbro suggests using a heavier weight for the row with the beads, which does help them stand out more.

However you do it, this technique is a great addition to your pattern stitch techniques and looks like you did a lot of work, when you didn't. And, who doesn't like that?!?!

Felted Bag Magnetic Snap How-To

2006-09-02T16:48:00.000-07:00

For felted bags, I have a suggestion for how attach the magnetic closer or snap that I discovered after several trials.

Instead of attaching the magnetic snap to plastic canvas, (as many “how-to” instructions, fabric stores, etc. will tell you)

1. Take the felted swatch you made for the purse (you did that, right!?!)

2. Cut a square or rectangle slightly larger than the snap (you will need room to sew around the snap since you will be sewing the felted square/rectangle to the inside of the purse once the snap is attached.

3. Use the prongs of the closer/snap to poke holes in the felt (or you may need to use the points of sharp scissors), centered on the felt piece.

4. Bend back the prongs so that they are flat against the felt piece. Instructions say you can use your fingers, but I use pliers. That way I get a good connection between the snap and the felt. You don’t want the snap to pull out of the felt. When the snap is in use, there is a lot of pressure on the snap.

5. Then, sew the felt piece, with the snap ½ installed on the inside of the purse, usually in the middle.

6. Repeat with the other snap half; align, sew and you are ready to go.

Here are a couple of photos of the snaps installed in the felt piece before it has been sewed into the purse:

Front

Back

The nice part about this is that the backing for the snap “matches” your purse exactly.

Gauging the Gauge

2006-09-02T14:39:00.000-07:00

Valery

Clara

I recently received Hip Knit Hats: 40 Fabulous Designs, Cathy Carron's book about, hats!

I thought I would give Yarn.com's or (Webs as they like to call themselves) Berkshire Bulky a try so I ordered several colors to make the Valery and Clara hat.

Photo of Valery in solid color from Pond's Edge

Valery calls for size 11 (US) needles, bulky yarn and 2.5 stitches/inch. Webs says Berkshire Bulky will knit up at: 3 sts = 1 on #10 needles, so I thought on 11s there was a good chance it might work.

While I was waiting for my order from Webs, I saw several other hats in the book, that I wanted to make, Skye and Hilda. Skye calls for Chunky yarn and size 10 (US) needles with a gauge of 3.5 stitches/inch. Another hat, Clara, called for #9 (US) with a gauge of 3 stitches/inch, chunky yarn.

Photos of Skye and Hilda from Pond's Edge

Knowing that knitting combines art and science and math and that one woman's bulky is another woman's chunky, when the Berkshire Bulky (BB) arrived, I swatched. I tend to knit right to gauge. I practice Combination Knitting or you might say I am a combination knitter. So, I thought it would be interesting to see how BB worked up on 11s, 10s and 9s, respectively.

I cast on 20 stitches and knitted 10 rows. With the 11s, I got my 2.5 stitches/inch. With the 10s I got 3.5 stitches/inch and with the 9s I got 3 stitches/inch. I didn't get 3 stitches/inch as yarn label indicated I would using #10 needles. Go figure.

My Valery came out quite well after consulting the errata for the pattern on the author's website. So did Clara, if I do say so myself!

Be certain to do this if you are knitting any of the patterns from this book. While the patterns are cute, the book is full of mistakes.

Here is a photo of my Valery...

And here is the Clara Hat that I knit with a Noni Bags camellia as an embellishment.

When Sophie Met Noni

2006-08-26T20:54:00.000-07:00

Is everyone on the planet felting?

After going to a fund-raiser where Booga Bags were being auctioned, I was sorely tempted to make my own Booga. Having never felted anything on purpose before, I spent HOURS online looking at all those photos of people's Booga bags made out of Kureyon or Silk Garden. Knitters were having a lot of fun with their Boogas.

Then I found the Sophie Bag. So sleek, so simple, so contoured and only uses ONE skein of Cascade 220 . Thank you Julie Anderson. Perfect project for a first time felt-er. I thought, well, perfect size for taking to the opera so I will make it in black. But then I saw some Squiggle and Fizz in colors that reminded me of mossy grass (which we have a lot of here) and a little embellishment had to make its way into the bag.

If you add a novelty yarn that is not felt-able or as felt-able as the purse yarn, the taper of the bag might be somewhat affected. In my case, it caused the bag to not taper as much at the top as it would have if the novelty yarn had not been there since Squiggle and Fizz have no wool in them.

The Sophie pattern is great. There is NO sewing!!!

You knit the bottom rectangle; then pick up stitches around the edge of the bottom and knit in the round, decreasing as you get to the top. Near the top, I carried the novelty yarn (Squiggle and Fizz) along with the Cascade 220 for a few rows, starting about an inch or inch and a half from the top. The handle detail is even better. You leave 6 live stitches on each side. From that you create two 3 stitch i-cords. When the two i-cords are the length you want (the handle length specified in the pattern is not long enough to go over your shoulder. I made the handles just long enough to go over my shoulder* ), you twist them, and graft them to the 6 live stitches on the other side. The whole thing has been knitted "together" and now it is going to be felted "together".

*Note: I-cord stretches even after felting so a swatch may be in order (I did one). Bev Galeskas says in Felted Knits that, " When felted, most I-cord will lose only about 15% of its knitted length. It may appear slightly shorter at first, but it will but it will stretch with use". I followed her advice and she was right. My handles have stretched out to the length I intended and have stayed there!

Now the felting fun begins. Having never felted before, I consulted several books, Felted Knits, Knit One, Felt Too, internet resources such as knitty.com and LYS experts.

One yarn store told me about Eucalan, a wool wash that you do not have to rinse out, which you will find can prove useful and it smells wonderful. I now use it to wash all my wool and cashmere (!) sweaters.

Another LYS expert advised me to put my items to be felted in a zippered pillow protector with a very tight weave, similar to the anti-allergy pillow protectors used by people afraid of dust mites. The idea here is to keep the "fuzz" from the item being felted "in the bag" and not in your washer's filter! Some resources will tell you to put the item to be felted in a "mesh" bag, similar to one you would use for lingerie. I'm not certain how this mesh bag full of holes would keep the fuzz away from your washing machine filter...

Sounded like a good idea. I happened to have a lot of those tightly woven zippered pillow protectors around because I, for one, am afraid of dust mites!!!

OK, back to felting... Of course, I had recently replaced my old top loading washer with a fancy pants front loading machine that during the spin cycle sounds like the runway of your local airport. LYS "experts" didn't have a lot of advice for felting in a front loader. About all they could say was, "Well, I have heard it can be done"... Research on the web offered some encouragement, so... I (or shall we say, Sophie) plunged in.

I set the wash cycle (I have a Whirlpool Duet which allows me to pause the cycle and the water level stays below the door) on the sanitary cycle which goes up to 150 degrees. Put in the Eucalan and set the timer for 10 minutes figuring that at 150 degrees Sophie would be done in 10 minutes. Well, she wasn't. She wasn't after 30 minutes. It took three, 30 minute sessions in the wash cycle of the oh-so-gentle-on-your-clothing Whirlpool Duet washing machine to felt this baby. But, finally, Sophie was felted. I stuffed her full of plastic bags, as recommended, and let her dry.

The Sophie pattern tells you to knit in the round. I found that the purl side of my bag felted better, so I turned it inside-out so that the purl side became the right side. Next time, I think I would just purl in the round. I don't know if this was a function of my washer's felting ability or my knitting or what... Turns out the Noni Bag pattern talks about the purl side as being the better side after felting for the camellias.

Now for some finishing details:

I wanted Sophie's bottom to be flat, not sag (like who doesn't want that!). I cut a piece of plastic canvas 3"x6" and tacked it inside the bottom of Sophie with a few stitches.

The magnetic closer or snap. This purse definitely needs one of these to help it keep its cute shape. I originally tried the idea of attaching the magnetic closer to plastic canvas (Attaching Magnetic Snaps) and that worked for a while. Eventually, my snaps tore through the plastic canvas and my snaps failed. I don't know if I attached them improperly, or put too much stuff in Sophie or what. Anyway, I had to come up with another solution.

I had made a felted swatch of the purse body color (black) before I started just to see how the Cascade 220 would felt. Since I had recently come upon this revelation that you can CUT felted material and nothing will happen; the material will NOT RAVEL, I thought, why not use the felted material in place of the plastic canvas as the backing for the magnetic snap???

So far so good and it looks better and is easier to sew in than the plastic canvas. Especially since it doesn't look like I will be lining this purse any time soon, although I bought a "fat square" of silk dupioni to line it...maybe later...

Shaving Sophie. Cascade 220 is pretty good about not pilling, but as you use the bag, some pills will form. Felting resources will tell you to shave the bag with implements ranging from hair clippers to sweater shavers to safety razors. Not being a power tools person (my lawnmower is a old fashioned reel (REAL) mower)), I opted for the least motorized and most controllable option (and the cheapest, I had one in my drawer!): the humble safety razor. Works like a charm!

I carried Sophie around with just her mossy green grass for a few weeks and she didn't get much attention. Then Noni Bags came into my life. These purse patterns are incredible. Thank you Nora Bellows. I just had to have that camellia pattern. After a few false starts, I was able to figure out how to put the camellia together.

Two Noni Camellias before felting.

I parked the Noni camellia after felting on the Sophie bag.

BTW, I thought I was only going to use this purse for special occasions, but I like it so much I use it every day! I have made a lot of new friends with this purse. People have been stopping me on the street, at the bank, at parties.

Even when I picked up my newly sharpened lawn mower the other day from the repair shop and the guy said, "Love the grass on your purse".

Knitting Websites

2006-08-23T21:40:00.000-07:00

Knitty.com:

This is one of the best, if not the best, websites for patterns, how-to explanations, inspiration, etc.

craftzine.com blog knitting archive

This is the Craftzine link to the knitting archive. You can search this for specifc projects or you can browse. The links will take you to the websites of the creators of some very creative projects and once on their website, a window into their world!

The Dulaan Project

is a cooperative effort of Mossy Cottage Knits, Flagstaff International Relief Effort (F.I.R.E.) and Kunzang Palyul Chöling (KPC) Buddhist community. It provides hand-knit items and fleece blankets to the impoverished people of Mongolia, where it rarely gets above freezing on winter days, and where the temperature can often reach -40°F at night. To survive, many of the homeless live in the heating ducts below the nation’s cities.

Knitta

Warming the world, one car antenna at a time...

Interweave Knits:

Free patterns in the projects section.

Mason Dixon Knitting:

For the blog between Ann and Kay. It's not what you think. You have to read the book and then you will get hooked.

Read the Mason Dixon KAL (knit-a-long) and you really will be hooked...

Yarn Store Knitting Forum:

Lots of links to lots of sites. I am just starting to explore this one.

Magknits: A bi-monthly free online knitting magazine. Not as good as Knitty.com but has some good features. This is the site where I got the pattern for the Sophie bag.

Knitters Review:

A free weekly online magazine for knitting and fiber enthusiasts. They have a lively forum and lots of good information.

Crafter's Knitting Forum

Similar to Knitter's Review but covers a wide range of crafts in addition to knitting.

Knitlist

Some websites recommended from the Stitch and Bitch book.

One Skein KAL

elann:

A website with great free patterns, yarn/needles to sell, swap, etc.

Pursenalities:

Website of the author of Pursenalities, a great book featuring felted purses.

Spunmag.com:

Spun Magazine features free knitting patterns, feature articles, personal essays, music, DVD and book reviews and other crafty fun." They seem to have a few of good articles about yarn, knitting, etc.

The KnittingZone

A combination forum, online place to buy yarn, sock knitting HQ, etc.

Knitting Machine Links

Chic Knits:

Machine and hand knitting links.

Where to Buy and Sell Handcrafted Items

Etsy.com

is an online marketplace for buying and selling all things handmade. Etsy lets you shop by color, place, time and material. I ran across this site when looking for felted beads. Great site for inspiration...

How -To Videos and Explanations

2006-08-23T21:38:00.000-07:00

There is lots of help out there on the web if you get stuck. Try some of these sites.

General Knitting Help

Knitting Help

I like this site the best for the basics, but the other sites have useful information, too. Keep checking this site out. Amy, the author seems to be adding new videos of techniques all the time. There are also free patterns on the site and I just discovered a forum on the site.

TECH knitting

25 years of knitting tricks want out of my mind, and into yours. (her words). This site has the answers to many of your knitting questions if you are willing to read the very clear explanations. I think this is for the knitter who has mastered the basics and now wants to master the finer points of knitting.

nonaknits tip and techniques

From the website, nonaknits, this is the tutorial section which has an interesting array of tutorials and knitting tips which are spot on! Especially good is the short row/improvisational knitting tutorial. Also reputed to be good is her sideways sock tutorial/pattern. I haven't tried it.

the purl bee.

At the Purl Bee you'll find articles, tutorials, and lots of project ideas. BEST OF ALL, you bring your own voice into the conversation by posting comments and interacting with others.

Some good tutorials here, not just knitting but crochet, sewing, etc. Nice quality projects.

Knitting Humor: Basic Knitting Instructions

Hello Knitty.com How To Videos, Etc.

Has the basics and then some extra finishing techniques that are quite useful.

http://www.az.com/~andrade/knit/index.html

Knitting at Knoon Designs - Knitting Videos

Our tutorial knitting videos are designed to provide assistance for newer knitters with some of the techniques used in our knitting patterns.

Knitters Graph Paper - Create Charts

Hints and Tips from Woolworks

More Technique Help from Woolworks

General information, color information, sock information, knitting for dolls, spinning, dyeing, fiber information.

Lion Brand Yarn Company Dictionary of abbreviations

Dictionary of Knitting and Crochet Pattern Abbreviations with very good illustrations on techniques and how-to instructions on various knitting terms.

Common Threads Fiber Art Store

FREE * On-line Class Room * Beginning Knitting. Knitting videos for the beginners. Recommended by SkinnyRabbit.com

Skinny Rabbit Links

General information and specific techniques. Check out her "how to" and other links in the links section.

Let Me Explaiknit:

Sara's blog for explaining knitting things: (she really (!) does explain things!). General information but this is really geared for the more experienced knitter who is willing to read the detailed account of how to do things written very well in a very small font!!

Knitters Review How-To and their Knitters Review Forum have lots of answers to your questions you didn't know you had!

Specific Techniques

From the Keyboard Biologist three techniques very well explained:

Applied I-Cord

Japanese Three Needle Bind Off

Yarn Forward Knit

More Technique Help from Woolworks

General information and specific information about color, socks, knitting for dolls, spinning, dyeing, fiber information.

French Knot How to Video Tutorial

Cabling without a cable needle

Excellent explanation and visuals. Hats off to Grumperina!!

Combination Knitting

This is knitting which combines Eastern and Western techniques. I knit this way and love it. Annie is a published knitting author, pattern designer and frequent contributor to knitting magazine such as Interweave Knits.

Edging

My Fashionable Life Evolution of an edge

For something like a neckband, or a front band on a cardi (as shown above), where you want something that looks like stocking stitch but which lies flat, this is perfect. Here’s how it’s made:

Cast on an odd number of stitches (the sample shown below uses 11).
Row 1: *K1, slip 1 with yarn in front* to last st, K1
Row 2: slip 1 with yarn in front, *K1, slip 1 with yarn in front* to end.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until your tubular edging is the desired length. Cast off and mattress stitch in place.

Next, I want to see what happens if I put buttonholes in it. Think it’ll work?

Annie Modesitt's I-cord edge

http://www.modeknit.com/blog/alisons_scarf.pdf

Anonyknits Seaming Better Than You Remembered

Felting

Pick Up Sticks - Felting Tips

Toes & Heels (and more...)

a collection of links to various free handknitting toe and heel techniques for socks. I found this compilation on "lostpurl's" blog and couldn't resist including it on my list of How-To's. Thanks, Suzann.

Tips and Tricks

This is from a sock knitters resource page and has some useful information in addition to helping you decipher common knitting abbreviations there is information on Kool-Aid dyeing, a Kool-Aid dyeing conversion chart (you didn't know you needed that, did you?!), picot cast-on, info. on washing yarns, needles and of course, quite a bit about SOCKS.

Joining in the Round: Preventing a Gap

A good video of how to prevent the gap when knitting in the round.

Circular Needle Storage

A good solution for storing circular needles. Office Depot has these pencil pouches, too, if you can't find them at Target.

See Eunny Knit

This website and blog has some incredible explanations on how to do things such as unventing a cable, steeks, provisional cast-on, lace, etc. Beautifully written.

Chic Knits Tips:

Tips on knitting, felting, installing a zipper, etc.

Japanese How to Website

Just for fun, this is a Japanese How-To Website with lots of illustrations

How To "Make One":

How to "Make One", a knitting increase that is virtually invisible.

Skinny Rabbit Links

General information and specific techniques. Check out her "how to" and other links in the links section.

Knitlist Tips:

The tips page is a great list of explanations and "tips" for the more experienced knitter. This tips list is from the website Knitlist which is a place to get lots of free patterns, advice and a whole lot more.

Knitters Graph Paper:

Create your own graph paper for charting knitting patterns

Let Me Explaiknit:

Sara's blog for explaining knitting things: (she really (!) does explain things!)

Hat Calculator

Knitters Review How-To and their Knitters Review Forum have lots of answers to your questions you didn't know you had!

Magic Loop Technique

How to knit small circumferences using one long circular needle

Purse Lining Instructions

How to Make or Line a Tote Bag

Attaching Magnetic Snaps

Once you have made your cute purse, you will want to put a magnetic closer, or snap inside to keep it closed. This site shows you how.

If you are making a Noni Bag, you might find this section useful. This shows some of the bags "in progress" and gives you some insight as to how they are put together since the pattern does not really give you any clues as to what it looks like "in progress".

Noni Camellia in progress

be*mused

Twisted Knitter camellia in progress

Threaded Bliss Yarns

The Noni unfurling rose before felting.

Colors for Noni bags

a reference for the Cascade 220 color #s for Noni Bags

Patterns

2006-08-23T21:36:00.000-07:00

General

Knitting Pattern Central

This site has LOTS (I think the most) of free patterns: Look under the category you are interested in and go from there!!

A List from Knitty.com

The Daily Knitter

I just discovered this site and am still evaluating the patterns, but the first look seems good.

Drops Design or ga rnstudio

Most of the patterns are free. Wow. Sophisticated styles and a wide variety.

B ella Online

A list of sites that have free patterns so there may be some repetitions.

Cover Your Head

A Hat-a-Long website that has links to knitting patterns for hats, and a whole lot more. Look under the "Charities" section for links to free patterns for mittens, afghans, hats, etc.

Knitting Projects & Articles from Interweave Press

Look here for free patterns and articles from one of the best knitting magazines out there. Very well written patterns and articles. A magazine worth subscribing to.

DIYNetwork - Knitty Gritty

DIY Network: Knitty Gritty Patterns: There is a wide range of patterns here.

The Knitting Zone

If you sign up for their newsletter, The Knitting Zone News, they send you free patterns. Here is the link to sign up: http://www.knittingzone.com/catalog/lists/?p=subscribe&id=1

My Free Knitting Patterns!! glampyre knits

Marnie MacLean : Free Patterns

Colorful Stitches

Right now, just hats and scarves, but more to come in the near future. Interesting ladder scarf pattern.

Children/Toys

Baby Bobbi Bear:

This pattern is just too cute. I must buy this pattern.

Wooly Wonder:

kids stuff, Keppie, a cute hat.

Captain Underpants

Dishrags and Towels

Honeycomb Dishrag Pattern

Textured Brick/Slipstitch Dishrag

Dish Towel in the Nina Shawl Pattern

This is inspiration from the Mason Dixon KAL and Barbara Walker. Read the entry and you will see how the clever person used the shawl pattern from the Mason Dixon Knitting book and a slip stitch pattern from Barbara Walker's book to create a beautiful dish towel.

Garterlac Dishcloth

Felted Purses/Handbags

The photos below are Noni Bags (felted). You can purchase patterns for these at yarn stores or online.

Interview with Nora Bellows, the creator of the Noni bags

Here is a website that has photos of all the patterns. Noni Bags. You have to have your POP-UPs ON for this site to see the photos. (You can set your pop-ups to be on for only this site.) Click on each one to see the photos. Here are a few.

Fingerless Gloves

http://wendyknits.net/knit/mitts.htm

http://www.knittingatknoon.com/fingerlessmittenpatt.html

Double Knitting

S tar Scarf

Flowers

Knitted Flower: similar to Noni Camellia

Spikey Flower

Nicky Epstein Flowers

Hats

Cover Your Head

A KAL devoted to hats. Lots of links for hat patterns and lots of contributors for inspirations.

I nterweave Knits Short Row Hat

Items for the Home

Felted Coasters, Beverage Jackets, and Hotpad Pattern

Moderne Log Cabin from Amazon.com website

Purses (mostly felted)

chris byls designs

A pattern to purchase or an inspiration! Felted cables.

Lorraine: a "faux Ferrigamo" bag

Vivian Hoxbro Free Patterns. Mitered Square Felted Purse. Not just felted bag patterns. Worth a look.

"Purse pattern: "Special Companion"

Felted "No Rules" Bag

Felted Purse pattern from dailyknitter.com

Belle Felted Handbag

Use this tip sheet if making the Belle Felted Handbag

Tip sheet for Belle Handbag

Elle Felted Handbag

Use this tip sheet if making the Elle Felted Handbag

Tip Sheet for Elle Handbag

The Sophie Bag: This is the Sophie Bag that I made in black with green novelty yarn trim at the top. To see my Sophie Bag, go here.

Modified Sophie Bag with Beaded Handle

Booga Bag:

The Balloon Bag!

Drops Design: free patterns

Free Felted Patterns and Free Felted Purse Patterns

Lots of felted purse patterns!!!

Fjord Felted Baguette Bag

Nubbles Felted Triangular Handbag

Pike Place Market Bag

Flora

The Little Coco Bag

Small Felted Bag w/Partition

Felted Handbags and Totes from Noble Knits

Flower Purse

Felted Bag with Mitered Squares

Recycled sweater totes

Handbags from old sweaters: Similar idea as in the book, Alterknits.

Scarves

Not Quite Straight Scarf

Keyhole Scarf Pattern

Flora Scarf Pattern

Soap Socks

http://ma2ut.blogspot.com/2006/11/lather-up.html

http://www.knitlist.com/00gift/soap-sock.htm

Socks

C able Twist Socks

Boogie Knits Free Sock Pattern Links

Sweaters

Sweater Pattern Generator

Sunrise Circle Jacket:

A free pattern from Interweave Knits. This one really speaks to me.

M ason Dixon Knitting: PerfectSweater

Sweaters for dogs

Web generated dog sweater pattern

Custom dog Sweater for fido.

Tank Tops

Tank Top

http://knit.definitelymaybe.org/patterns/ProsperousPlumTank.pdf

Wrist Warmer Patterns

http://del.icio.us/AmberCake/wristwarmers

Felting as Art

2006-08-23T21:35:00.000-07:00

Artists

Felt Artists Links (just found this, have not fully explored it!)

http://www.peak.org/~spark/felt_artist_links.htm

This is an example of some of the sites:

http://www.threads.org.uk/html/dani_duric-petrovic.html (purse)

http://www.jeanhicks.com/ (hats, couldn't resist the photo!)

http://www.totalverfilzt.de/Sonstiges.htm (fun puppet or something called a Schmuckmonster!!

http://www.annettetotzauer.de/haupt.html(or these cute felted puppets and felted beads)

Special Knitting Techniques

2006-08-23T21:31:00.000-07:00

Special Knitting Techniques

Here are some knitting techniques that you might like to learn.

Domino Knitting Patterns Square 1

Domino knitting is mitered squares plus a whole lot more.

Mitered Squares No Sew. The first 2 links are from Mason Dixon KAL. It is a way to join mitered squares without sewing. It produces a very fine end result. The 3rd link is another option for a no-sew mitered square join.

http://anonyknits.blogspot.com/2006/07/eureka-part-i.html

http://anonyknits.blogspot.com/2006/07/eureka-part-ii.html

Psychedelic Squares Afghan Stocking St Version

Log Cabin Alternative Stitch Pick-Up

Log Cabin knitting alternate way to pick up stitches: (I like it!)

Scribble Lace:

You have to see it to believe it. Debbie New invented it in her book, " Unexpected Knitting." Mason Dixon Knitting promoted it in their book and there is a good photo on this blogspot.

Combined Knitting:

If people say you knit "backward" (like they say I do) then you are probably a "combined" knitter. Check our Annie's website for the whole story.

Color or Striping Inspiration

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Fibonacci Striping Pattern Example

This is an example of a Fibonacci striping sequence in a sweater

Mason Dixon Baby Kimono: idea for striping

Log Cabin Afghan

Log Cabin Colors for inspiration before completed

Log Cabin Colors for inspiration

Mitered Square Afghan Colors

Miter Diplomacy Round 1

Shows what finished products look like in the yarn/colors: interesting...

http://www.knitwhits.com/yarns.shtml

Wobbly Circles Tote (I just liked the colors in this bag)

Interweave Knits Magazine - Spring 2006 Yarn Requirements

Classic Elite Montera (50% llama, 50% wool; 127 yd [116 m]/100 g): #3862 kingfisher blue (turquoise, MC), 3 skeins; #3887 pear (light green), #3885 Bolsita orange, #3829 aqua ice (light blue), and #3823 spring leaf (medium green), 1 skein each.

Stitches I like

Linen Stitch and Half Linen Stitch

Scribble Lace

Mosaic Garter Stitch is a slipped stitch pattern stitch that uses 2 or more colors to achieve a color knitting effect without "carrying" the yarn. It is easy to do and has a interesting "beaded" effect. This site shows an example with 17 colors! You carry the yarn up the side, twisting to keep it secure.

Mosaic Garter Stitch pattern called Crosspatch from a Knitty.com pattern in garter stitch. Based on Barbara Walker. .

Mosaic Knitting: Wendy Wonnacot's article: zibibboisgood.com

Kristi Porter's article and pattern on Mosaic knitting on: knitty.com.

CatKnitz blog entry on "Beaded" and striped Baby-Bib-O-Love here.

Math for Knitters

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Fibonacci Sequence

What is a Fibonacci sequence? How do knitters use it? Check it out. This site gives you insight into those striping patterns that look complex yet pleasing to the eye. How do they do that? It's really not that hard!

Fibonacci sequence: A mathematical sequence consists of a series of numbers, usually starting at 0 or 1, all of which are derived from preceding ones according to formal rules. In other words, no matter where you are in the sequence you ought to be able to deduce what the following number should be.

For example: here are the first 5 numbers generated from the sequence, This is the sequence:

Start with a 0 and a 1 (you won't knit a zero (0) row (!), really.

(0 and) 1, so really:

0+1=1

1+1=2

1+2=3

2+3=5

just keep going...

Math for Craft Design

Have you ever wanted to create an attractively spaced stripe, or tried to calculate how long an item should be once you've gotten the width figured out? If so, you've come to the right place.

There are three mathematical concepts shown on this website which can be extremely helpful when designing a new pattern. Don't let the math part scare you off.

Fibonacci Numbers

Lucas Numbers

The Golden Ratio

Knitty Gritty Fibonacci Knitting DIY Network

The Home of Mathematical Knitting

Math for all fiber arts including knitting. An amazing number of links.

Knitting Calculators

These web based tools work out pesky knitting math for you. Brought to you by the Knitting Fiend

Wet, Shibori and Nuno Felting

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Wet

Wet Felting

Feltcrafts - Wet Felting Rolling Machine

frombelgiumwithlove.etsy.com

This seller on Etsy.com has very interesting felted jewelry. Worth a look.

EBSQ - Zines: The Ancient Art of Felt Making :

Wet Felted Flower example

Felted Hats/Jackets: wet felting

Lizzie Houghton

Tops, Jackets, Coats

Jackets: Lizzie Houghton

International Feltmakers Association

Felted bead tutorial

Felt beads tutorial

The Felt Making Process: Additional Felting Information

Felt Beads

Shibori

Just Jussi Shibori scarf tutorial

Shibori is a Japanese wet felting technique for pleating and resist dyeing fabric and then wet felting it. It results in beautiful textures and color effects.

Nuno felting

Nuno Felting: Zia Gipson - The Artist At Work

Nunofelt

"Nunofelt making is a specialized, but equally old, application of felt work, made by arranging open weave fabric with loose wool fibre in an alkaline liquid environment and then subjecting the combination to agitation. Depending upon the desired outcome for the felt, heat may or may not be applied in order to speed, tighten or coarsen the felt..."

Blogs I Read

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Modeknit Knitting Heretic

Annie Modesitt's site. She is the Knitting Heretic

The Keyboardbiologist

Yarn Harlot

K nitta

Warming the world, one car antenna at a time...

imaybeknittingaranchhouse

Yarn

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elann.com

Ships from Canada. No sales tax. Reasonable shipping charges. Name brand yarns plus their own line of high quality yarn. I am getting ready to place an order of Peruvian Highland wool which is a Cascade 220 look-alike and Sonata (which is a Tahki Cotton Classic look alike) at substantially reduced prices. I will keep you posted on the blog as to how I like these.

Knit Picks

Kelly has developed her own lines of high quality yarns at very reasonable prices. I have used Berkshire Bulky and found it to be quite acceptable for hats. Order 0f $40 gets you free shipping!

Yarn.com/aka "Webs"

This company out of New York, carries a huge number of name brand, very high quality yarns like Noro, Debbie Bliss, etc. in addition to their own brand, Valley Yarns at good prices. If you purchase $60 or more of YARN, you get a 20% discount. Purchase $120 of yarn and the discount increases to 25%. No break on shipping, no matter how much you buy!!!

Shipping costs are based on weight.

I did order a gallon of Eucalan, Wool Wash, lavender scented, for a very reasonable price from Yarn.com and the shipping was not outrageous.

Yarnware

The K nitting Zone

Smiley's Yarns

Yarndex - The Yarn Directory

Infinite Yarns! Free shipping over $100

Graftonfibers: Roving, crocheting with roving, etc.

Koigu Yarn

One Fine Yarn

Where to Buy or Sell Handcrafted Items Online

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Etsy.com

Accessories

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Storage Solutions

TamingTheChaos

A blog entry solution for storing circular needles.

Accessories

Free Sweater Shaver: Sweater Stone

Sweater Stone is a natural pumice which has the unique ability to remove pilling from knits with each sharp edge of a broken cell. It actually cuts the filament that holds the pill to the garment while the cell breaks off, removing pilling and restoring the nap on fabrics.

Joggles.com

A source for leather purse handles.

Leather Handle

The Knitting Zone

Suede, sew-on purse handles, sew-on magnetic snap (plastic, not certain how this would hold up), suede sew-on purse bottoms.

Floral Felted Bag:

Good site for photo of bag with leather handles

lucet:

A gadget for making i-cords.

This is the blog I found out about the lucet: