Sunday, July 22, 2007

Free Pattern: Button Knot Bib or Wash Cloth and Softie Toy? You Decide!!

Knot Just Another Cute Knitted Bib!, the Button Knot Bib:  The Bib That Grows with Baby.

Free Knitted Bib Pattern

I wrote out the directions for the bib for my knitting group and I will share them with you. 

Copyright © Catherine M. Ford July 2007. This pattern may be shared at no cost providing this copyright notice remains intact. It may not be sold, nor may the finished product be sold without prior permission of the author. Images on this page are copyright Catherine M. Ford, 2007.

 

Button “Not” this Bib.  Use the Knots as Buttons to attach the straps, untie when you are finished using it as a bib and you have a cloth that is useful in the kitchen or the bath and a new softie toy for your baby.  Kind of like lost money found!

Here is the tutorial for making a toy from the bib straps. 

 

The Bib that Grows into to a Wash cloth for the Kitchen or the Bath and  a Little Bit More!

 

OVERVIEW:

A garter stitch bib with a visually complex pattern that is easy to master.

This is a great project for the new knitter who wants a quick project that teaches them a few new techniques, has a life after baby has “grown-up”, and lends itself to being made in any combination of colors.

For the experienced knitter it’s a quick baby present and it "grows" as your baby does as it “transforms” into a cloth for either the bath or the kitchen. For an extra treat, the straps turn into a softie toy!   Most knitters know that nicely knitted cloth lasts a long time, much longer than a baby needs a bib, so the Button Knot Bib is the perfect solution.

 

SIZE: One  

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

Bib:  Approximate, 8”wide, 7” length or “high”
Straps:  9" prior to knots being tied.  Length will vary depending on how tight knots are tied.

MATERIALS :

[MC] Tahki Cotton Classic [100%cotton; 108yd/100m per 50g skein] ½  skein or 45 yards/20grams approx. for bib

[CC1] Tahki Cotton Classic [100% cotton; 108yd/201m per 50g skein] ½  skein 45 yards/20grams approx. for bib

*[CC2]  Optional Tahki Cotton Classic  [100% cotton; 108yd/201m per 50g skein] 12-15 yds/5 grams approx. for straps

Tahki Cotton Classic can be machine washed in warm water and dried in the dryer for this application.

(A good source for Tahki Cotton Classic  is Yarnware.com)
*Note:  CC1 can be used for the i-cord straps instead of a third color (CC2).  The straps will contrast with the top band which is knitted in the MC.

US #6/4mm needles, Straight or circular needles may be used

US #6/4mm DPN for i-cord.  Circular needle can be used as substitute for dpns in this application

Tapestry needle

 

GAUGE:

20sts/19 garter rib rows = 4 inches/10cm in garter stitch.  Note:  20 garter ribs  = 4” (they are easier to count than garter rows.  A garter rib is 2 rows of garter stitch.)
Gauge is not critical for this project but you will want to be somewhat in the ballpark so that the bib comes out the size you want it to.

 

PATTERN STITCH:  8 Rows

With MC Rows 1 and 2: K

With CC1 Row 3 (K1, Sl 1 wyib)* to last st, K1.  Be sure to slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise so as not to twist the stitch.

Row 4, (when you are returning, you will knit the stitches you knitted in Row 3 and slip the stitches you slipped in Row 3.)  (K1, S1 wyif)* to the last st, K1

Do not break yarn while working the stripes; simply strand the yarn up the side of your work.  You will be switching colors every other row except at the bottom (before CC1 is tied on)  and top of the bib after you are finished with CC1).  It will make for a nice clean edge. 

With MC Row 5-6 K

W CC1 Row 7-8 K

 

DIRECTIONS for Bib:

With MC, CO 41 sts.  (if you are altering the pattern, an odd # of stitches must be used for the pattern stitch to work)

Row 1-3, K, (garter stitch)

Tie on or change to CC1, do not cut MC.

I use Nancie Wiseman’s (The Knitters Book of Finishing Techniques) method for attaching the new yarn color which is called the “Magic Knot.  You tie the new yarn around the old yarn with just a single knot which allows you to slip the new yarn up the strand of the old yarn.  It also allows you to untie it easily should you need to.

 

Using CC1 K the next 2 rows (Row 4-5)

Change to MC, do not cut CC1, and BEGIN PATTERN STITCH on Row 1 of Pattern Stitch (this will be your 6th row)

Repeat Pattern Stitch six (6) more times.

Change to MC, (you are now on Row 62, garter rib 31 if you are counting!), K

 

Buttonhole Rows:  (This is a 2 stitch buttonhole.  It is made by binding off 2 stitches on the first row, then casting on 2 stitches over the bound off stitches in the next row.  A third row using a special technique finishes off the buttonhole.)

Row 63, K 6 st (when you BO, you need to knit to the 6th st so that there will be 4 sts left on the edge of the bib when you do the bind off), BO 2 st, (be sure to pull the last cast off stitch TIGHT)  K to the last 5 sts, BO 2 st, K to the end. (Note:  There should be 4 stitches on the bib edge side of each buttonhole.

 

Row 64, K 4, turn and CO 2 sts using the cable cast on method, (Knittinghelp.com is a great resource if you need help with the cable cast on technique) turn and K to the cast off stitches at the other end of the work (4 stitches from the end), turn and CO 2 sts using the cable method, turn and knit to the end.

Row 35, K, pick up the loose thread at the start of each buttonhole, work the next stitch and then pass the picked-up stitch over the worked stitch so that you don’t increase the number of stitches.   Pull the working yarn  firmly after “passing over” to prevent any loops forming.

 

Row 66, K

BO.  You will be binding off from the wrong side of the work.  Weave in ends, either horizontally or diagonally across the wrong side of the bib.

 

DIRECTIONS for the DOUBLE I-CORD STRAPS:

CO 4 sts.  K two 9” i-cords for the straps. (I like to knit them both at the same time.  You will need to use two different strands of yarn, one from the inside of the skein, one from the outside of the skein.  This way, both i-cords will be the same length.)    Knittinghelp.com is an excellent resource if you need help with the i-cord technique.  Weave in ends.  I like to use a tapestry needle and thread/hide the ends of the i-cord up inside the length of the i-cord.  

Another option for the i-cord straps is to use a simple knitting machine such as the Embellish-Knit!.  You will make each cord separately, the desired length.  I have a video tutorial and a written tutorial on how to use the Embellish Knit machine for i-cord.

 ALTERNATIVE DIRECTIONS for SINGLE STRAP:

CO 4 sts.  K one 12” i-cords for the strap.

 

ASSEMBLY:

For the double straps:  Slip the finished end of the i-cord through one buttonhole from the wrong side of the work to the righblt side of the work. Tie a loose overhand KNOT: Overhand_knot at the end of each i-cord strap.  Pull the strap so that the knot on the right side of the bib is snug against the bib.  Do the same thing on the other side of the bib.

           

For the single strap:  Slip the finished end of the i-cord through one buttonhole from the wrong side of the work to the right side of the work. Tie a loose overhand KNOT: Overhand_knot at each the end of the i-cord strap.  Pull the strap so that the knot on the right side of the bib is snug against the bib.  The knot at the other end of the 12” strap will serve as a button fastener.

   

 

You are finished!  A “half” of a square knot, just one strap looped over the other, will keep the bib in place.  The knots at the ends of the straps hold the straps in position.

 

When you are finished using this as a bib, unite the straps, and you have a lovely cloth for kitchen or bath. 

When baby grows up, the i-cord straps can be transformed into Softie Toys.  I attached some novelty yarn at the top to give my toy some wild hair!  You could use leftover scraps of yarn or anything soft to decorate your toy.  Embroider eyes, spots, etc. and away you go!  For safety, please do not sew on buttons or other small objects until your child is old enough not to put things in their mouth and possibly choke.

   

 

Balloon Art can be your inspiration! 

 

I am beginning to assemble other ideas for "life after bib".  No photos yet, but several suggestions "in progress"  from friends have included:

1.  Sundress yoke or top. (you will need 2, one for the front, one for the back).  Knit or sew fabric for the skirt.  I am presently working on a pattern for this.  

2.  Small purse.  Sew 2 bibs together on the sides and bottom and you have a small purse for yourself or a small tote for your child.

3.  Apron yoke or top.  You would basically need 1/2 a sundress plus some ties.  Or you could just purchase this cute apron.

4.  Pillow top.  You would need 4 bibs.  Sew them together for one side, use fabric for the other side.

 

Abreviations/Defintions:

BO = Bind Off

CC = Contrasting Color

CO = Cast On

DPN = Double Pointed Needles

K = Knit

P = Purl

MC = Main Color

S = Slip.  Always slip the yarn “purlwise”, as if to purl the stitch

STs = Stitches

Wyib = with yarn in back of work (this mean that the yarn was away from you or behind the work.  You will do this when you are on the right side of the work so that the bar created will be on the wrong side of the work.  Don’t worry, it seems more complicated than it is.  Once you do it, you will see how easy it is!)

Wyif = with yarn in front of work (this would mean that the yarn was toward you since you are on the wrong side of the work, you want the “bar” created by the yarn on the back of the work)

 

Garter Stitch= knit every row

Cable Cast On:http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/

i-cord:http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/misc.php

Copyright © Catherine M. Ford July 2007. This pattern may be given away at no cost providing this copyright notice remains intact. It may not be sold, nor may the finished product be sold without prior permission of the author. Images on this page are copyright Catherine M. Ford, 2007.

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5 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great baby bib!!!
I thank you for sharing your pattern.
Will be knitting this up as soon as I get some yarn.

7/25/2007 8:51 PM  
Anonymous Bonnie said...

Love the pattern. Could you clarify? In the directions it ways *Row 1 of Pattern Stitch will be your 6th row." However, the Pattern Stitch is 8 rows. This confuses me. Also, I'm confused as to where to change from MC to CC1. Thank you for any help

9/19/2007 6:48 AM  
Blogger catknitz said...

Hi Bonnie,
Happy that you like the pattern.
Now, let’s see if we can clear up the confusion.
Where it says in the directions, “*Row 1 of Pattern Stitch will be your 6th row.", I meant: this would be the 6th row of knitting on the bib, not the 6th row of knitting on the pattern stitch. ( I should have stated that more clearly. Thanks.)
As for the change from MC to CC1, with the exception of the top and bottom rows (where you cast on and knit the MC for 3 rows, then tie on the Contrasting Color), you alternate or CHANGE colors every 2 garter ROWS or every garter RIB (they are the same thing). You do NOT cut the yarn when changing colors. What happens is you will knit across on the right side with one color (1 row), turn the work, knit back across (with with wrong side of the work facing you) with the same color (now you have finished 2 rows). You have completed 2 rows of garter stitch or one garter rib.
Now you are back on the right side of the work and both colors of yarn are there and you pick up the OTHER color of yarn and knit 2 rows (of course, you are following the pattern stitch at whatever point you are at in the pattern). You just keep alternating the MC and the CC until you get to the top of the bib and then you just knit with the MC, leaving the CC to be cut and woven in at the end.

Hope this helps. Ask again, if you have any more questions.
I would love to see your finished project!!
CatKnitz

9/19/2007 8:47 AM  
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