Free Pattern: Button Knot Bib or Wash Cloth and Softie Toy? You Decide!!
Knot Just Another Cute Knitted Bib!, the Button Knot Bib: The Bib That Grows with Baby.
Knitted Bib Pattern
wrote out the directions for the bib for my knitting group and I will share them
© Catherine M. Ford July 2007. This pattern may be
shared at no cost providing this copyright notice remains intact. It may not be
sold, nor may the finished product be sold without prior permission of the
author. Images on this page are copyright Catherine M. Ford, 2007.
Button “Not” this Bib. Use the Knots as Buttons to attach the straps, untie when you are finished using it as a bib and you have a cloth that is useful in the kitchen or the bath and a new softie toy for your baby. Kind of like lost money found!
Here is the
Bib that Grows into to a Wash cloth for the Kitchen or
garter stitch bib with a visually complex pattern that is easy to master.
is a great project for the new knitter who wants a quick project that teaches
them a few new techniques, has a life after baby has “grown-up”, and lends
itself to being made in any combination of colors.
the experienced knitter it’s a quick baby present and it "grows" as
your baby does as it
“transforms” into a cloth for either the bath or the kitchen. For
an extra treat, the straps turn into a softie toy! Most knitters know that nicely knitted cloth lasts a long time, much
longer than a baby needs a bib, so the Button Knot Bib is the perfect solution.
Approximate, 8”wide, 7” length or “high”
Straps: 9" prior to knots being tied. Length will vary depending on how tight knots are tied.
Cotton Classic [100%cotton; 108yd/100m per 50g skein] ½ skein
or 45 yards/20grams approx. for bib
Cotton Classic [100% cotton; 108yd/201m per 50g skein] ½ skein
45 yards/20grams approx. for bib
Cotton Classic [100%
cotton; 108yd/201m per 50g skein] 12-15 yds/5 grams approx. for straps
Tahki Cotton Classic can be machine washed in warm water and dried in the dryer for this application.
good source for Tahki
Cotton Classic is Yarnware.com)
*Note: CC1 can be used for the i-cord straps instead of a third color (CC2). The straps will contrast with the top band which is knitted in the MC.
#6/4mm DPN for i-cord. Circular
needle can be used as substitute for dpns in this application
garter rib rows = 4 inches/10cm in garter stitch.
Note: 20 garter ribs
= 4” (they are easier to count than garter rows.
A garter rib is 2 rows of garter stitch.)
Gauge is not critical for this project but you will want to be somewhat in the ballpark so that the bib comes out the size you want it to.
STITCH: 8 Rows
MC Rows 1 and 2: K
CC1 Row 3 (K1, Sl 1 wyib)* to last st, K1. Be
sure to slip the stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise so as
not to twist the stitch.
4, (when you are returning, you will knit the stitches you knitted in Row 3 and
slip the stitches you slipped in Row 3.) (K1,
S1 wyif)* to the last st, K1
not break yarn while working the stripes; simply strand the yarn up the side of
your work. You will be switching
colors every other row except at the bottom (before CC1 is tied on)
and top of the bib after you are finished with CC1).
It will make for a nice clean edge.
MC Row 5-6 K
MC, CO 41 sts. (if you are altering
the pattern, an odd # of stitches must be used for the pattern stitch to work)
1-3, K, (garter stitch)
on or change to CC1, do
not cut MC.
I use Nancie Wiseman’s (The Knitters Book of Finishing Techniques)
method for attaching the new yarn color which is called the “Magic Knot.
You tie the new yarn around the old yarn with just a single knot which
allows you to slip the new yarn up the strand of the old yarn. It
also allows you to untie it easily should you need to.
CC1 K the next 2 rows (Row 4-5)
to MC, do
not cut CC1, and BEGIN PATTERN STITCH on Row 1 of Pattern Stitch (this will be
your 6th row)
Pattern Stitch six (6) more times.
to MC, (you are now on Row 62, garter rib 31 if you are counting!), K
Rows: (This is a 2 stitch
buttonhole. It is made by binding
off 2 stitches on the first row, then casting on 2 stitches over the bound off
stitches in the next row. A third
row using a special technique finishes off the buttonhole.)
63, K 6 st (when you BO, you need to knit to the 6th st so that there
will be 4 sts left on the edge of the bib when you do the bind off), BO 2 st,
(be sure to pull the last cast off stitch TIGHT) K
to the last 5 sts, BO 2 st, K to the end. (Note:
There should be 4 stitches on the bib edge side of each buttonhole.
64, K 4, turn and CO 2 sts using the cable cast on method, (Knittinghelp.com
is a great resource if you need help with the cable cast on technique) turn and
K to the cast off stitches at the other end of the work (4 stitches from the
end), turn and CO 2 sts using the cable method, turn and knit to the end.
35, K, pick up the loose thread at the start of each buttonhole, work the next
stitch and then pass the picked-up stitch over the worked stitch so that you
don’t increase the number of stitches. Pull
the working yarn firmly after
“passing over” to prevent any loops forming.
You will be binding off from the wrong side of the work.
Weave in ends, either horizontally or diagonally across the wrong side of
for the DOUBLE I-CORD STRAPS:
4 sts. K two 9” i-cords for the
straps. (I like to knit them both at the same
time. You will need to use two different strands of yarn, one from the
inside of the skein, one from the outside of the skein. This way, both i-cords
will be the same length.) Knittinghelp.com
is an excellent resource if you need help with the i-cord technique.
Weave in ends. I like to use
a tapestry needle and thread/hide the ends of the i-cord up inside the length of
Another option for the i-cord straps is to use a simple knitting machine such as the Embellish-Knit!. You will make each cord separately, the desired length. I have a video tutorial and a written tutorial on how to use the Embellish Knit machine for i-cord.
DIRECTIONS for SINGLE STRAP:
4 sts. K one 12” i-cords for the
For the double straps: Slip the finished end of the i-cord through one buttonhole from the wrong side of the work to the righblt side of the work. Tie a loose overhand KNOT: Overhand_knot at the end of each i-cord strap. Pull the strap so that the knot on the right side of the bib is snug against the bib. Do the same thing on the other side of the bib.
For the single strap: Slip the finished end of the i-cord through one buttonhole from the wrong side of the work to the right side of the work. Tie a loose overhand KNOT: Overhand_knot at each the end of the i-cord strap. Pull the strap so that the knot on the right side of the bib is snug against the bib. The knot at the other end of the 12” strap will serve as a button fastener.
are finished! A “half” of a
square knot, just one strap looped over the other, will keep the bib in place.
The knots at the ends of the straps hold the straps in position.
you are finished using this as a bib, unite the straps, and you have a lovely
cloth for kitchen or bath.
baby grows up, the i-cord straps can be transformed into Softie Toys.
I attached some novelty yarn at the top to give my toy some wild hair! You
could use leftover scraps of yarn or anything soft to decorate your toy. Embroider
eyes, spots, etc. and away you go! For
safety, please do not sew on buttons or other small objects until your child is
old enough not to put things in their mouth and possibly choke.
Balloon Art can be your inspiration!
I am beginning to assemble other ideas for "life after bib". No photos yet, but several suggestions "in progress" from friends have included:
1. Sundress yoke or top. (you will need 2, one for the front, one for the back). Knit or sew fabric for the skirt. I am presently working on a pattern for this.
2. Small purse. Sew 2 bibs together on the sides and bottom and you have a small purse for yourself or a small tote for your child.
4. Pillow top. You would need 4 bibs. Sew them together for one side, use fabric for the other side.
= Bind Off
= Contrasting Color
= Cast On
= Double Pointed Needles
= Main Color
= Slip. Always slip the yarn “purlwise”,
as if to purl the stitch
= with yarn in back of work (this mean that the yarn was away from you or behind
the work. You will do this when you
are on the right side of the work so that the bar created will be on the wrong
side of the work. Don’t worry, it
seems more complicated than it is. Once
you do it, you will see how easy it is!)
= with yarn in front of work (this would mean that the yarn was toward you since
you are on the wrong side of the work, you want the “bar” created by the
yarn on the back of the work)
Stitch= knit every row
© Catherine M. Ford July 2007. This pattern may be given away at no cost
providing this copyright notice remains intact. It may not be sold, nor may the
finished product be sold without prior permission of the author. Images on this
page are copyright Catherine M. Ford, 2007.